Varanasi to Versailles is a celebration of the legacy of Indo-European aesthetics in Indian textiles

Known for innovating rare techniques of hand weaving in Varanasi, designers Swati and Sunaina Gold showcased their latest collection - French Inspired Varanasi saris recently at Gaurang’s Kitchen. Presented by Gaurang Shah and Pratiksha Prashant, the collection named Varanasi to Versailles is a celebration of the legacy of Indo-European aesthetics in Indian textiles, forging a powerful artistic conversation across time and cultures.

The ensembles encompassed single edition saris, dupattas and garments reinterpret quintessentially Benarasi fabrics and weaving techniques, taking inspiration from various styles of French brocades — from Rococo to the Baroque. These combine a use of the finest of muslin and silk yarns, environment-friendly dyes, and 98.5% silver zari electroplated in 24-carat gold.

The showcase also featured a French-style shikargah jaal, a bold Rococo flower cast as a konia, Baroque-period bouquets forming butas, and the gossamer textures of lace handwoven across a pallu are some of the highlighted elements of the collection.

Asked about the inspiration, Sunaina explained, “In 2020, just before COVID, Swati and I went to France. We were inspired by the connection between France and India, particularly in the realm of women’s fashion. We decided to bring back French motifs and flowers and integrate them with our Indian weaves. Many of the saris here feature bows and ribbons, embodying a very French aesthetic. During our trip, we visited flea markets in France where we found old textiles and crochets, some dating back to the 17th and 18th centuries. We replicated many of these with our own twist, though some designs weren’t practical to weave.”

The collection takes forward the robust exchange of decorative styles in historical textiles between India and France, expressing them in fabrics from Varanasi. Diaphanous tissues, refined tanchois and heavy gyaser brocades take centre stage in the show. Hand-brocading techniques like kadhua, jamdani and dampach are included, which are also part of Varanasi’s traditions.

“This project has been four years in the making. It took considerable time to develop the designs, which were then sent to Varanasi for graphing. The cards were punched and the designs went onto the looms. However, sometimes the weavers would tell us certain designs weren’t feasible, so we had to make adjustments and start again. This collection is truly a dream project for us,” said Sunaina.

From colourful blossoms to scenic landscapes, French textiles across centuries have used diverse imagery, reflecting the changing tastes of their patrons. This collection of woven couture is inspired by such various phases, particularly referencing the experiments which unfurled in the successive courts of Versailles, beginning with King Louis the Fourteenth. “We drew inspiration from the Palace of Versailles in France, replicating architectural designs. We used traditional weaves for example, Shikargah, traditionally depicting hunting scenes with animals like tigers and elephants, was reimagined with a French influence, incorporating small cupids, serpentine figures, and rabbits — elements not typically seen in Shikargah saris. We’ve included birds and butterflies in our designs as well,” she says.

The motifs and patterns range from the bold and outstanding, to the delicate and intricate. Their details, effects of shading, use of multiple colours and pairings with textures in zari, requires the complex use of the jacquard. A patterning mechanism invented in Lyon, France, the jacquard has revolutionised the process of designing and producing Indian textiles for almost a century.

The Golds Collection pays a special ode to French lace, by incorporating elements from it onto parts of brocaded textiles which have been specially engineered. Fusing lace with quintessentially Banarasi techniques gives an edge to their classic repertory of handloom textiles, and is already being appreciated by its loyal collectors. “We created around 20 to 25 designs, with only eight pieces woven per design, each in a different colour,” Sunaina tells us. Regarding suitable occasions, Sunaina said that this collection is perfect for festive and wedding events, especially the heavier saris. The lighter saris with lace can be worn for cocktails, evenings out, or even lunches.