Couturier Nachiket Barve’s latest collection, Urban, turns everyday wear into a chic affair
For famed couturier Nachiket Barve, designing is essentially a problem-solving tool and he approaches fashion in a way to make life more fun, more comfortable, and hence more exciting. “Clothes should make people feel like the best version of themselves. I never thought of catering to only a certain size of women or men and we go up to 6XL and are happy to customise,” says Barve, who designs are always democratic and inclusive, adding jazz to one’s wardrobe, no matter which part of the world you are in.
The National Award-winning designer has come up with a fresh drop, called Urban, to turn your everyday wear into something celebratory in an understated manner and he chose to unveil the same with Indulge. As he gears up to showcase Urban along with an array of his upcoming collections in Kolkata this August, we catch up with him to get an update on the same. Excerpts from the chat.
Tell us about the new collection Urban.
We have always done collections that are fantastically crafted, clothes that are made with beautiful fabrics, including handwoven textiles, and Urban is no exception the rule. But what makes it special is the use of a lot of creative yet minimal surface treatments for everyday use in a really younger and more youthful format. So, there’s a lot of use of denim, there is a lot of layering and separates. The designs are muted and trendy yet timeless.
What was the inspiration behind the collection?
We do a lot of couture and festive clothes that work beautifully for your celebrations. But this time I felt why fashion should be restricted to only special occasions and why not make everyday a little more special.
In a way, Urban is a continuation of my design process and the collection whispers with its elegance. So, these are clothes that are going be a part of your wardrobe for years and seasons to come, and more importantly, rooted in the Indian traditions, whether in terms of Ari work or applique, with a modern twist to it. For example, Merino wool felt applique is a large part of the collection. There are also silhouettes that can be worn as a tunic, as a dress, and can be styled differently by different ages and different body types.
How has your design process evolved over the years?
When it comes to my design thoughts evolving over the years, I always feel like a student -- I am always looking for new things, I want to learn, whether it’s from a book or Internet, or even an intern working with us, from the artisans, or it could be even be from a vintage piece of textile. I am always hungry and always curious and that’s what keeps me excited about this field after so many years. What also makes my work perhaps different from the others is the interaction I hold with customers. Many a time, I learn from the clients themselves and their feedback matters. I feel fashion should make people feel like the best versions of themselves, and the clothes really have to reflect that.
Tell us about your festive wear designs for this fall-winter?
We are expanding our festive wear base with a few capsules of clothes that are made from soft, beautiful, lightweight fabrics in pastels with very delicate embroideries. I really feel that festive clothing is something that needs to be felt up close and it not only has to look amazing but also feel very good on your skin. It has to lightweight and effortless in style -- the idea of being weighed in and trapped in your festive wear is something that bothers me. Women shouldn’t feel like being boxed in to a costume while celebrating special occasions. Functionality and fashion should go hand in hand.
In our festive line, there will textures and layering in soft romantic pastels and super glam colours like saturated reds, pinks, inky blues and blacks for the evenings besides champagne, gold, and metallics. Unapologetic glamour is something that I am really veering towards for this season. For men as well, I am looking at the idea of effortless sophistication. So, whether it’s tone on tone ivory, candy pastels or black on black for the evenings, men also ought to feel a sense of joy and ease.
Has festive fashion changed in the last few years?
Yes, it has changed a lot in the last few years. With functions going on longer, and people wanting to take clothes for destination weddings, functionality, form and ease of packing are a few factors apart from an element of modernity. Also, a lot of energy is invested into how the clothes look when photographed and how they look on social media. With wedding films becoming important, themes have come into play and clothes have to go together with the vibe of the family.
How do you include sustainability in your designs?
Nothing is more sustainable than clothes that grow with you and become a part of your life over the years. When you wear something that’s handmade and if you repurpose and re-wear it, that makes fashion sustainable by itself. We work with natural fabrics only and work a lot with traditional textiles and techniques which also completes the circle of responsibility by providing employment to the artisans and thereby supporting the craft. I firmly believe in reducing wastage by upcycling any leftover fabric in forms of applique, cutwork or tassels.
Who is your favourite style icon and why?
There are too many to choose from but off the cuff I like the classicism of someone like Audrey Hepburn -- she had great dignity and grace. I also love Rajmata Gayatri Devi, and her mother, Indira Devi, for bringing a sense of modernity to what royalty and fashion look like and introducing an element of minimalism even with all that maximalism put together. In contemporary culture, the best inspiration comes from people who without an army of stylists and makeup entourage and photoshop, take the fashion and make it their own style statement.
What fashion means to you?
Fashion is translating creativity, pushing boundaries, and creating designs solutions for people where they look and feel their best. I feel it also ought to support Indian craft and craftsmen to take the narrative of textiles farther. I feel fashion is how we create a spin around something that has existed for centuries and make it more comfortable, lightweight, modern in aesthetic and affordable too.
Your upcoming collections?
What I am really excited is launch them here in Kolkata this August end. Apart from the Urban edit, there will be a festive line, a solid cocktail line, a glam evening wear range and full-fledged menswear line. Besides I am also working on a few special projects since creating something new always ignites me.