Paris Haute Couture Week: Elie Saab unveils enchantingly eerie autumn/winter 2024-25 collection

The collection unfolded like a descent into a nocturnal dreamscape
In frame: A model presents a piece from Elie Saab's Fall/Winter 2024-2025
In frame: A model presents a piece from Elie Saab's Fall/Winter 2024-2025

Elie Saab’s latest haute couture collection was a departure from his usual realm of shimmering gowns fit for a goddess. This autumn/winter 2024-25 offering delved into the ethereal, embracing a darkly romantic aesthetic that explores Gothic motifs and Victorian mystery.

In frame: A model presents a piece from Elie Saab's Fall/Winter 2024-2025
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Saab, renowned for his exquisitely feminine designs that fuse Western silhouettes with Middle Eastern embellishments, took a deeper dive into the unknown this season. Sequined spiderwebs adorned bodices, necklines rose and plummeted dramatically, and cascading capes evoked a sense of otherworldly elegance.

The collection unfolded like a descent into a nocturnal dreamscape. The first half transitioned from inky black to deep ruby and emerald, showcasing sinuous gowns adorned with minimal embroidery or veiled in luxurious feathers and delicate floral appliqués. Layers of lace and dramatic ruching created a sense of Gothic opulence, a stark contrast to Saab’s usual radiant creations.

“In beauty, too much perfection becomes boring,” Saab declared, hinting at his exploration of a more enigmatic side of femininity. Deep reds and pitch blacks dominated the palette, with crushed velvet, mesh, and lace taking centre stage. He masterfully layered shimmering fringed skirts, cascading beadwork, and ethereal mesh, adding a touch of his signature glamour to the mystical themes.

The finale was a quintessential Saab showstopper – a breathtaking la mariée gown. This ethereal cloud of blush tulle was intricately embroidered with curlicues of pale gold, its regal train evoking dreams of a royal wedding.

In frame: A model presents a piece from Elie Saab's Fall/Winter 2024-2025
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Saab’s autumn/winter collection was a captivating departure from the expected, proving that even the master of glamorous gowns can embrace the allure of the mysterious and the macabre.

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