Exclusive: Rohitash Notani’s label Rosani to unveil Anima & Animus at upcoming LFWxFDCI
The March edition of Lakme Fashion Week in partnership with FDCI to be held in Mumbai from March 13 onwards, will see a fresh set of four emerging designers showcasing their collections on ramp. The INIFD Presents GenNext winners include the talented couturier Rohitash Notani.
An alumnus of the IED Milan, 40-year-old Rohitash’s label Rosani focuses on the juxtaposition between the rigidity of conventional masculinity and the sensuality that’s traditionally associated with feminine energy.
His collection Anima & Animus is a juxtaposition between the
rigidity of conventional masculinity and the sensuality that is traditionally associated with feminine energy. The collection revolves around work wear and uniform fabrics featuring cotton drill, combined with a mix of embroidered materials.
As he gears up for the big show, Rohitash fills us in with all the details of the collection.
Tell us all about your collection.
With Anima & Animus we are setting the stage for a reimagined narrative in menswear—one that makes space for the pluralistic nature of our identities. We've incorporated elements that traditionally aren't seen together in menswear like soft embroidery with structured fabrics, the robust with the tender, the boxy volumes with floral motifs, and crinolines. We’ve attempted to reassert the essence of human existence, always a little bit of both the feminine and the masculine and confined to neither beauty that is boundless.
What's your design philosophy?
The dialogue around fluidity in menswear has been circulating for a while, but for me, it's deeply personal. My work reflects my own journey of finding a design language. I too have felt trapped within the constraints of dressing a certain way because that’s what society permitted men. Growing up then, gathering more courage and gentle inspiration from the rest of the world, I learnt to ditch all those heavy expectations— and it felt amazing. And I want to bring that joy and freedom to others. I've come to realize that the 'rules' of masculinity in fashion are mere illusions, smoke and mirrors set up by a society with rigid, heteronormative views.
My design philosophy has been that of cross-over, mixing & uncovering the beauty that comes from the union of contrasts. I wanted to create a space that blends traditional men's silhouettes with the delicate intricacies and embellishments often reserved for womenswear.
How experimental are Indian men getting when it comes to their clothes?
The Indian menswear landscape is inherently rich and diverse, it has ample room for multiple styles to coexist and thrive. But lately what’s been heartening to observe is the expanding universe of Indian man’s style vocabulary. It's a noticeable shift, particularly among the younger demographic, towards more experimental attire, something not pre-dictated from the gaze of gender and sexual identities. We've seen men choosing more flamboyant pieces, and deeply engaging with their stories and meanings.
Roadmap for the label in the years ahead?
We hope to grow organically and take our brand to other markets globally.
What are the summer fashion trends this year?
The summer fashion playbook I am looking at is all about tailored chicness. Shorts are surely having a moment. But whether you're donning the tiniest of shorts or going for the classic Bermuda, it's all in the cut and tailoring. Make it ‘really’ you.
What according to you are summer wardrobe must-haves?
Vests are indispensable for this summer. I would stock up on a vest for every mood. Pair it with a well-tailored shirt or an oversized vintage shirt. Lastly, throw in that one essential shiny piece in the ensemble, and you’re golden (literally). But to be honest, a hint of metallics is a must-have for all seasons.
Your favourite fashion icon and why?
David Bowie, without a shade of a doubt. His approach to fashion as a boundless canvas for creativity and self-expression resonates deeply with Rosani's ethos of creativity. David didn't just wear clothes; he turned them into a rebellion, a statement, a piece of art. Fashion for him was the ultimate playground, and he played to win. What a legend!