Kritika Kamra's Cinnabar weaves empowerment through Chanderi

I have always been drawn to the beauty of chanderi work. My hometown is just 30 km away from chanderi, and growing up, my mother’s collection of chanderi saris was something I admired. Every time I had the chance to wear a sari, whether for Teacher’s Day or my school farewell, I would borrow from her collection. Chanderi saris are luxurious yet lightweight, perfect for young people. During the pandemic, I went to chanderi for a food drive and saw firsthand how severely the weaver community was affected by the lack of work. They didn’t just need food but a steady income. Many had handlooms at home, but their businesses had halted completely, with no platform to sell their stock. I wanted to help them in a way that enabled long-term income. We started with a simple Instagram page to educate people about chanderi and showcase the craft. What started as a small project is now evolving into a sustainable designer label.

Chanderi weaving is a generational craft and, for many families, their primary source of income. The only way to sustain these age-old traditions is through monetary support. by creating demand and investing in handcrafted products over mass-produced fashion, we can uplift the artisan community. It’s about mindful, slow consumerism that values exclusivity and quality, supporting artisans, and ensuring these traditions continue.

Our design philosophy is instinctive and personal, driven by my mother and me. We create based on our own tastes, which makes cinnabar stand out. We don’t mass-produce; we craft in small batches due to the nature of the loom work, which requires making six saris of the same pattern before switching threads. We incorporate customer feedback but maintain a consistent theme. The visual language may evolve, but the traditional process stays untouched.

Initially, we were strangers to the community, but over time, we built trust and now have a direct, transparent relationship. My mother manages all the coordination and payments herself, eliminating middlemen. My parents regularly visit chanderi to stay connected and maintain open communica- tion with the weavers. This transparency is appreciated by both the artisans and our customers.

What began as a passion project now has a clear path forward. We plan to launch our website by the end of the year and position cinnabar as a sustainable, responsible brand for those who value thoughtful fashion. My vision for the brand is to be a part of wedding trousseau and cherished by women who appreciate meaningful clothing.

It’s crucial. Many brands are now embracing sustainability and supporting small businesses. championing traditional arts and crafts is essential, but bringing artisans along on that journey is even more vital.

Sabyasachi Mukherjee is iconic to me. He has brought Indian fashion to the global stage while staying true to his roots.

A classic chanderi and a metallic handwoven sari.

Silk for its festive appeal, but it depends on the occasion.

In Mumbai, I lean towards minimalism because of the heat and humidity. but I love layering when I travel.

I’m currently shooting for Matka King with Vijay Varma, directed by Nagraj Manjule.