Designer label Abraham & Thakore’s SS’25 edit celebrates dystopian opulence
Celebrated for their minimalistic chic designs and known for their ‘fabric first’ philosophy, David Abraham and Rakesh Thakore’s feted label Abraham & Thakore’s Spring-Summer’25 collection, Finding Beauty, unveiled recently at LFW x FDCI, leaves an indelible mark for its thrust on sustainability. The range delves into the forgotten, the cast-off, and the disregarded through a collection of luxuriant evening wear that uses discarded materials that are normally left behind in our rapidly moving world to embellish the attires. What’s unique is that this edit reimagines waste as a treasure, profoundly reflecting consumption and value. The dazzling collection in a colour palette comprising white, beige, gold wine red, coffee, and black, makes ingenious use of discarded materials. Everyday Indian ephemera finds like gunny bags, toffee wrappers, bin bags, kitchen foil, and rice sacks finds new interpretation as cement sacks get transformed into stunning evening gowns. You’ll find, sequins laser-cut from discarded X-rays, while the delicious ‘scroop’ of silk, while attributed to plush French dresses of the early 1900s, emerges this time from the rustle of a contemporary knee-length skirt. Memories once trapped in old film reels are expressed on delicate georgettes, while unspooled cassette tapes are intricately woven into organza, forming delicate floral motifs that evoke a sense of nostalgia. Hundreds of discarded chip wrappers, each with its own tale, are stitched together to create striking knee-length dresses. Abraham takes us through the edit.
What’s the idea behind the collection?
The idea was to impress the wearer with the unexpected use of everyday materials that are otherwise of little use, and turn them into something glamorous and desirable.
How different is this collection from your previous ones?
This is for the first time we used such discarded materials in an unexpected manner. But then again, it’s in sync with our label’s vocabulary of exploring new ways to use traditional things.
What are the autumn-winter trends for women?
A little more subtle shine and sparkle should be added, especially in these troubled times.
What are the winter festive and party wardrobe must-haves?
The A&T AW collection has a few must-haves for winter like silk brocade, jackets, and short dresses with beading, and luxurious silk velvets, both plain and printed in rich autumn colours.
How do you approach sustainability?
We approach sustainability with the use of certain fabrics such as recycled pet fabric, Coroso wooden button, but more importantly using local weavers and artisans so they continue their livelihoods without having to leave their villages for work in the cities.
What’s your design philosophy?
Using traditional Indian craft and techniques in a modern new voice every season; and by creating beautiful things that hopefully people want to buy inspire me hugely.
Who is your favourite fashion icon?
Diana Vreeland for her foresight in fashion and her wit.
What are your plans with the label?
To open a few more stores and also expand the home and lifestyle range with our new collections of upholstery and wallpaper.
Please share about your upcoming spring summer collection outline?
There will be a summery colour palette in white, beige, black with accents of Indigo blue and lime green. We will be using a lot of silk cotton fabrics and linen with a bit of shine for day-to-evening looks.