Nupur Kanoi's Maya Collection: A fusion of tribal art, modern silhouettes, and traditional craftsmanship

Nupur Kanoi’s latest collection, Maya, is more than just a fashion statement—it’s an artistic journey into the heart of illusion, energy, and love. Drawing inspiration from global tribal art, ancient symbols, and the powerful concept of maya — meaning ‘illusion’ in Sanskrit — this collection captures the deceptive nature of the material world through striking designs and intricate craftsmanship. With Maya, Nupur explores the dynamic interplay between tradition and modernity, creating a collection that is both timeless and contemporary.

“Maya, in Hinduism, represents the cosmic illusion that makes the world seem real,” explains Nupur. “In this collection, I wanted to reflect the simple world around us, as seen through the eyes of artisans. Their surroundings, the tribal art, and the symbols they use to depict their land’s history are captured in a vivid illusion of geometry and texture.” Through beadwork, kantha, and crewel embroidery, she transforms these traditional techniques into wearable art, blending native motifs with bold contemporary aesthetics.

The collection is a tapestry of earthy tones like oxblood, rust orange, and teal, paired harmoniously with classic blacks and ivories. These colours, though unconventional for a festive line, are carefully chosen to balance the chaos and beauty of life itself. “I wanted to push my boundaries with this palette,” says Nupur. “The bold tones felt right for the theme of Maya and complemented the textures we were incorporating, giving the collection an edgy, eclectic feel.” The classic black and ivory accents help ground the vibrant hues, maintaining a sense of balance and sophistication.

Maya also embraces modern, feminine silhouettes that speak to today’s woman, offering wardrobe staples that can be worn year-round. The intricate designs, featuring animal-like forms and faces, speak to her personal journey. “I’ve always been drawn to Indian indigenous art, and recently, my love for animals, especially cats, has influenced my work. You can see references to feline and bovine forms throughout the embroidery, which reflect both my passion for nature and my personal experiences.”

Blending traditional Indian crafts with global influences has always been part of Nupur’s ethos. “For me, merging different cultures with India’s rich textile heritage happens naturally. It’s not a forced process. It’s about finding beauty in chaos, much like the diverse and vibrant fabric of India itself,” she adds.

Price on request. Available online.

—manuvipin@newindianexpress.com