KH House of Khaddar’s Sutura collection blends elegance with principles of sustainability
KH House of Khaddar’s newly launched collection, Sutura, fuses the elegance of high fashion with the principles of sustainability. Inspired by beauty in its rawest form, Sutura celebrates nature’s unrefined elements with each garment embodying the essence of the earth through colours that echo the tones of dirt, stone, sand, and sky. “Our journey over four collections has been about merging sustainable fashion with high fashion—two ends of the spectrum that rarely meet in the middle. We see fashion as civil yet disobedient, and Sutura serves as the essential tendon between the two,” says Amritha Ram, creative director of the label. Post its showcase at the New York Fashion Week (NYFW), Amritha takes us through Sutura that features complex, sustainable fabrics, such as organic tomato leather, khaddar denim pique knit, muslin khadi, and circular mesh fabric. Excerpts from our chat:
What was the idea behind the collection?
The idea behind the collection was to maintain a close connection with natural khadi in both colour and design while ensuring it has a global appeal. We aimed at incorporating a mix of elements, drawing inspiration from the natural world — reflected in colours like olive, grey, blue, and brown, representing dirt, stone, sand, sky, and nature. Also, the garments were designed with features like discord, repairs, and tissues to enhance the overall aesthetic.
How different is it from your other collections?
This collection stands apart due to its focus on distressing the fabric, which we hadn’t done before. While past collections, like the one showcased at Paris Fashion Week, were centred around vibrant colours and bold patterns — designed to shift perceptions of khadi as dull or limited — this time, we emphasised its natural form. We incorporated frills and surface textures, using distressing techniques to create unique patterns and designs, offering a raw, organic aesthetic compared to our previous bright and colourful pieces.
What was the response like at the NYFW ?
The collection was well received, especially for its fresh take on khadi. The use of natural colours, distressing, and texture creation resonated with the audience, providing a different perspective on how khadi can be modernised while staying true to its roots. The approach of highlighting the fabric’s natural beauty, while also adding innovative design elements, was appreciated.
What’s trending in regular chic and party wear?
There’s a resurgence of classic and sporty fashion trends, particularly in the realms of chic and party wear. There is a notable revival of ’90s elements, and I appreciate the enduring appeal of classic styles. Moreover, sporty attires exude a distinct attitude that I find appealing. There’s an emergence of pleated short dresses in various iterations, as well as jackets with high-low hems on the red carpet. Both of these trends are captivating.
What is your design philosophy and how has it evolved over the years?
My design philosophy has remained consistent, though it has evolved. From my early days as a student in New York, where I created halters and skirts using Indian fabrics and antique borders from my grandmother’s closet, I’ve always been passionate about blending Western silhouettes with Indian craftsmanship. This approach has been central to my work, and showcasing this collection in New York feels like coming full circle.
What do women prefer in fashion?
The fashion scene today is all about comfort, which is why oversized clothing has become so popular. It stems from the casual, relaxed feeling of wearing a sibling’s clothing when you’re young, and now it’s part of mainstream fashion. Women, today, want to feel comfortable in their skin and express themselves without restrictions. Fashion has become deeply personal. This shift toward personalisation is a welcome change, and fashion will continue to evolve in this direction, allowing everyone to express their individuality.
What are the winter wardrobe must-haves this season?
It’s essential to have versatile layering pieces, as weather can fluctuate, and you want the ability to add or remove layers comfortably. From base layers to sweaters, cardigans, trenches, jackets, and accessories like stoles and scarves, layering is key. Winter can be fun and stylish—you don’t need new clothes, just creativity in reworking your existing wardrobe.
How do you incorporate sustainability?
We focus on ethical production practices. We don’t mass-produce or operate in sweatshops. Our labour ensures fair wages, and most of our fabrics are hand-woven. For materials like nets and leather, we source from sustainable options, including tomato leather. This time, we’ve also embraced upcycling — what I wore on stage was a denim skirt made from left-over pieces from our previous collections. Also, we use natural dyes.
What inspires you?
I draw inspiration from a wide array of sources in my surroundings. The attire and presentation of individuals, the distinctive fashion of different cultures during my travels, and even the minutest observations serve as sources of creative inspiration for me.