Unveiling Sul-FUR: Nitin Bal Chauhan's dramatic tribute to World War I at London Fashion Week

Nitin Bal Chauhan is bringing the drama to London Fashion Week with his latest collection, Sul-FUR — a gritty exploration of World War I through an Indian lens.

At Medusa X Fashion Week and City Runway, Nitin unveiled Sul-FUR, a collection steeped in history and emotional resonance. Inspired by the devastating realities of World War I, this collection channels the essence of battlefields into bold, wearable art. Nitin explains, “I was deeply moved by the Jallianwala Bagh memorial during my visit to Amritsar. It sparked my desire to explore the untold stories of Indian soldiers in the world wars.”

Sul-FUR’s monochromatic colour scheme of black and white organic cottons sets a somber tone, embodying the desolation of post-war landscapes. Nitin elaborates, “White cotton represents the nurses who witnessed the aftermath of war. They never fought on the front lines but saw the horrors through the wounds of soldiers.”

The collection’s brutality is further emphasised through hand-embroidered 3D details inspired by grenades and artillery. “As I translated the horrors of war, I realised that complex patterns speak best in monochrome. Each piece is devoid of life and fervour, pushing the boundaries of traditional couture,” Nitin states.

The inspiration behind Sul-FUR isn’t just visual; it’s visceral. Nitin notes, “I focused on the skeletons of bombed buildings and the textures of war — how artists crafted prosthetics to mask the grotesque injuries of soldiers. Each garment tells a story of loss and resilience.”

From oversized shirt dresses to trousers evoking the chaos of mustard gas, every piece reflects a narrative of disruption. “The double-forked collars and skewed yokes symbolise a soldier’s desperate attempt to return to normality,” he shares.

What sets Sul-FUR apart is its bold rejection of traditional couture aesthetics. “This is non-decorative couture. It captures the truth of war without trying to seduce you with beauty. It’s not haute-couture; it’s war-couture,” Nitin asserts. “We celebrate the skill of hand embroidery but do so with a straightforward honesty that reflects the stark realities of history.”

Specific pieces from the collection encapsulate this emotional journey, like the oversized shirt dresses with exaggerated hemlines that swirl dramatically, reminiscent of smoke from battlefields. “We even created prosthetic masks for the show, which were instrumental in conveying the collection’s narrative on the ramp,” Nitin adds.

Price starts at Rs 60,000. Available online.

— manuvipin@newindianexpress.com

@ManuVipin