With the Lakmé Fashion Week x FDCI coming up next month, here’s a look at the impressive work of this year’s NIFD Global presents GenNext winners Padma Saldon, Ananya Arora, Saurabh Maurya, and Sakshi Vijay Punyani. The designers also share with us the fashion forecast for the upcoming winter season for you to step out in style.
Padma Saldon| 2112 Saldon
Designer Padma Saldon’s journey with wool began with her grandmother, who was her encyclopaedia to the traditional art of Nambu, a hand spun sheep wool textile. “Watching her spin wool during my school summer breaks was my first lesson in this age-old craft. Growing up, Fashion TV was my window to a world I aspired to join—dreaming of showcasing my work one day on that very stage,” recalls the designer, whose label, 2112 SALDON, emerges as a beacon of sustainable fashion, rooted deeply in the cultural tapestry of Ladakh. With a profound commitment to preserving heritage, Padma’s designs are a mix of tradition into contemporary motifs. Paying homage to Ladakh’s iconic attire such as Goncha and Sulma, Padma’s label employs techniques like patchwork —both inside-out for sustainability —and resist printing, ensuring each piece embodies timeless elegance and ecological responsibility.
How unique is Ladakh’s own fashion heritage?
It is incredibly unique, characterised by its traditional yet practical garments like the Goncha and Sulma, designed to withstand the harsh climate of the region. The vibrant colours, intricate embroidery, and use of natural materials like sheep wool make Ladakhi fashion distinct.
What's the collection you would be showcasing at LFW x FDCI this October?
I will showcase my collection Echoes of my Cradles featuring a palette inspired by the colours I have seen worn by my grandparents and people of Ladakh, such as earthy grey, ochre, yellow, indigo blue, and vibrant pinks. The cuts and silhouettes will blend traditional Ladakhi attire with modern aesthetics, featuring flowing dresses, structured jackets, and versatile separates. Textures will play a crucial role, with a focus on handwoven sheep wool, intricate embroidery, and layered fabrics that reflect the region’s artisanal heritage.
How do you promote sustainability?
Sustainability is at the heart of my design philosophy. I believe in creating timeless classics that people would like to keep more as an heirloom, focusing on slow fashion. I incorporate eco-friendly materials and promote handwoven textiles. I am also exploring natural dyeing methods and upcycling leftover fabrics to create new pieces.
Your favourite fashion icons?
Some of my favourite fashion icons include designers who seamlessly blend tradition with modernity, such as Dries Van Noten and Vivienne Westwood.
Future plans for your label and other upcoming collections?
Looking ahead, I plan to continue exploring the rich heritage of Ladakh and other regions, creating collections that celebrate traditional craftsmanship, while pushing the boundaries of contemporary design. I am also excited about expanding my label internationally and collaborating with other artisans and designers who share my passion for sustainable and ethical fashion.
Sakshi Vijay Punyani | VJ
NIFT alumna Sakshi Vijay Punyani’s latest collection Virah , explores the theme of separation and is inspired by the various stages of grief, offering solace to mourners and those who support them. Accepting grief as normal, as it encourages us to bravely face it, instead of hiding from it. It features garments crafted using natural alpaca, wool, and cotton, along with recycled banana, polyester, and silk yarns, employing patchwork techniques such as hand knitting, flat knit, crochet, computerised knitting, handwork, and mesh created on flat knit. The colour palette reflects emotions associated with loss, featuring shades of grey, burgundy, rust, and brown. The designs showcase exaggerated silhouettes and innovative knit textures, including boucle yarn, which adds depth to the collection. We learn more about the same before it gets showcased at LFWxFDCI this October.
The collection explores the theme of grief at different stages. How have you translated it into your designs?
Grief is a natural process, and everyone deals with it differently, despite it being one of the most difficult emotions. Having gone through it myself, I can relate to the intensity of the emotions. And I have designed a collection that depicts different stages, so that an individual can relate to, validate, and acknowledge their feelings and does not run from it. As for the designs, I turned emotions into tangible garments via lines, shapes, forms, and colours, with a psychological scheme for each of them. My ultimate approach was to maintain the intensity of the feelings while ensuring that the collection is also visually appealing. One of VJ’s primary objectives is to eliminate the use of plastic and polyester materials. We focused on utilising natural fibres like cotton, wool, alpaca, and merino wool, alongside recycled materials such as banana and silk yarns. To minimise waste, we also incorporated fabric scraps into our designs, making innovative use of clothing waste. The techniques employed include hand-knitting, flat hand knitting, crochet, and patchwork to promote sustainability.
What inspires you?
I find great inspiration in the power of storytelling. A good story can elevate an idea into something creative and unique.
Future plans for your label and other upcoming collections.
I aim at transitioning from our current conceptual collection to a more commercially viable one, focusing on incorporating diverse fabrics, unique textures, and styles suited to the Indian climate.
Saurabh Maurya | MARGN
Noida-based designer Saurabh Maurya’s latest fall-winter collection, is an interpretation of human systems, wherein he has explored tying as a form of protection, preservation, and shelter. It features recycled wool boucle, cotton twill checks, bemberg lining in trousers, and techniques, such as hand-knitting and crochet appliqués, alongside innovative tie-ups, which create a unique blend of texture and functionality.
How have you represented the human system in your designs?
Our collection for LFWxFDCI reflects our survival instincts, highlights rudiments of human systems through the exploration of packaging and tying — protective measures that are common across all cultures. Following our observations of unconventional yet ubiquitous systems, be it a truck driver’s use of bora to protect his vehicle to the act of wrapping things when shifting homes, are all instances that informed the conceptualisation of this collection. We synthesised these observations into a cohesive representation of craft and functionality, with our designs heavily inclined towards the utilitarian aspects. The range exemplifies our observations through the hand-knit puffer gilet, which is a unique take on the conventional gilet. Knit details are elemental to this collection, along with symbolism, which comes to light through origami folds and panelled constructions.
How has your label evolved over the years?
Looking back at 2021, I believe our brand has progressively aligned with a business-oriented approach, refining our understanding with each passing year. Today, we design collections with a primary focus on this aspect, placing a heavy emphasis on our target audiences and consumer behaviour.
How experimental have men become in India when it comes to fashion?
Lately, there has been a significant shift in how people perceive the dichotomous concept of gender. Moreover, we are witnessing a change in traditional norms surrounding masculine identity, specifically in terms of ‘who a man is’ and ‘what a man can be.’ This change in perception has led to men becoming more experimental with their fashion choices. A notable example is our first launch, which featured a line of skirts, and I was pleasantly surprised by the positive feedback.
Five wardrobe essentials for men.
A classic black tee, a well-constructed pleated trouser in a timeless colour, a textured knit for added depth, a thoughtfully designed shirt - tailored to the individual’s personal aesthetic and an off-white tee for versatile alternative.
Future plans for your label and other upcoming collections?
We plan to significantly expand our direct-to-consumer (D2C) channel to become the leading ready-to-wear menswear brand in India. We also aim at exploring more collaborations and diversifying our product categories to include shoes, bags, and other accessories.
Ananya Arora | Ananya The Label
Ananya Arora’s Ananya The Label’s latest collection Zazen draws inspiration from meditation and nature and the painting of The Buddha, featuring techniques like embroidery and block print on vegan silk, handloom cotton, kala cotton denim, and recycled cotton, reflecting a commitment to conscious design.
What’s the idea behind the collection?
For our upcoming showcase at LFWxFDCI , we will showcase versatile clothing in intriguing silhouettes designed to move with the wearer, make a statement, and prioritise community and environmental responsibility. Our inspiration stems from the painting The Buddha by O-dil-o Rho-do, depicting a mindful Buddha surrounded by flowers, blending into a unified consciousness. The artist’s work served as a bridge between East and West, allowing us to draw silhouette inspirations from both cultures. Zazen’s colour palette is directly derived from the painting. The collection features plant-based fabrics like vegan silk, handloom cotton, kala cotton, and hemp, combined with embroidery and block printing techniques. Our embroidery uses untwisted threads, traditionally used for phulkari embroidery, and our block designs are created in-house. A unique aspect of our printing process is that we stitch the garment before printing.
What inspires you?
I draw major inspiration from various abstract concepts, philosophies, and feelings that are universally relatable, transcending individual roots.
Your favourite fashion icon?
I greatly admire certain designers for their exceptional talent, including Yohji Yamamoto, Issey Miyake, Craig Green, and Hed Mayner, to name a few, besides Jacquemus for staying relevant to fashion.
Future plans for your label and other upcoming collections.
Something that I have gradually gravitated towards is incorporating yoga and meditation into my routine, which I believe will start reflecting in the brand’s future endeavours. We’re already planning to launch a capsule wardrobe, ATL Basics, featuring fixed essentials from our brand. Our focus will then shift to creating statement jackets, robes, and kimonos that add a stylish layering element to our basics, helping you make a statement when desired. Our ultimate goal is to be recognised as a brand that crafts exquisite statement outer layers while upholding our values of sustainability and mindfulness.