The solid gold khadi bordered-saris of Andhra Pradesh is now being revived by this initiative

The once-celebrated Venkatagiri weavers of Andhra Pradesh, known for their exquisite fine-count cotton saris since the 1700s, have faced a decline in recent decades due to the rise of powerlooms, the diminishing value of cotton and a market shift favouring benarasi, kanjivaram and paithani styles. As their traditional design language faded, the weavers struggled to maintain their rich heritage. However, in an effort to help revive this ancient weave, WeaverStory, in collaboration with Tata Trusts’ Antaran initiative, has been diligently working over the past several months to breathe new life into the Venkatagiri cluster.

“Venkatagiri saris were so delicate that they earned the moniker ‘woven air.’ During 1700s, these saris were distinguished by their high cotton thread counts — reaching 200s and luxurious solid gold khadi borders. The introduction of the jamdani weaving technique further enriched their design vocabulary, incorporating intricate buttas inspired by natural motifs. However, over time, a shift towards thicker cotton counts and silk resulted in losing their original finesse and the design language that defined them,” begins Nishant Malhotra, founder, WeaverStory.

Revitalising these saris required a delicate balance between preserving their historical essence and introducing elements that appeal to contemporary tastes. “We studied archival designs at museums and worked with previous buyers of the Venkatgiri saris. To modernise the saris while retaining their heritage, we incorporated subtle contemporary elements like refined colour palettes and updated motifs,” he shares.

The fine cotton counts in this collection enhances the tactile quality of these saris, making them exceptionally soft and lightweight, consistent with the original ‘woven air’ feel. This attention to cotton quality ensures a luxurious drape and comfort. “The jamdani weaving plays a crucial role by reintroducing the intricate buttas and patterns that were a hallmark of Venkatagiri saris. The technique not only restores the historical design but also adds a layer of texture,” Nishant elaborates. For this edit, a selection of four archival designs — heart jala, rudraksh, kattan checks and sarada — was made, based on their historical significance.

Reviving saris with 80-100 cotton count presented significant challenges for the label — primarily due to the scarcity of expertise and the need for specialised equipment. Many weavers had shifted to thicker counts and retraining them in the delicate art of fine-count weaving was essential. Hence, WeaverStory’s collaboration with Antaran involved comprehensive training programs designed to upskill weavers in traditional techniques. The program included practical workshops where weavers learned the nuances of fine-count cotton weaving and the jamdani technique. “Recreating the solid gold khadi borders involved research and collaboration with skilled artisans to replicate the traditional techniques used in the original saris. Care was taken to source high-quality gold threads and fine cotton to ensure authenticity,” he elucidates.

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