Robert Naorem’s latest collection displays intricate indigenous weaves
Manipur-based designer Robert Naorem’s eponymous label was born out of his passion for telling the world the age-old stories of the rich weaving heritage of his state, Manipur. Having showcased in more than 20 countries since the inception of his label in 2012, Robert is proud that his toils have finally put the spotlight on Manipur’s indigenous weaving techniques and timeless fabrics. After an aesthetic showcase of his latest collection, aptly called Eyong —meaning loom in Manipuri— Indulge catches up with Robert for a hearty chat on the collection and more. Excerpts from the same.
Tell us what made you start your back in 2012.
I started as a makeup artist in 2005 but always wanted to tell the story of my state’s interesting weaves through a unique fashion narrative. I wanted to do my bit to uplift my state through fashion and also showcase my identity, besides reviving the dying culture of Manipur’s weaving profession. The handloom industry across the world is degrading with the next generations of weavers being no longer interested in pursuing their family profession. Furthermore, most of the fashionable youth often discard handloom textiles, preferring western fast fashion to traditional attire. I always feared that the magical and intricate art of weaving might eventually die, and that led me to launch my label and showcase the unique weaving art of my state. I have showcased my designs in 20 countries, including Italy, France, the UK, and Australia. I am glad that my work helped change the kind of idea and perception that prevails about indigenous traditional weaves. Also, since 2012, the market has greatly evolved, with the young ones becoming conscious and proud of their sartorial heritage. Now, many of them love and embrace handloom. I feel my biggest achievement is that I too have been instrumental in bringing in the change in my little way. Currently, more than 125 weavers are working in Manipur with me, and I have about 25 weavers at my home. The ongoing unrest in Manipur has left many without a job, and I have employed a few of them and taught them the art of weaving to sustain their families.
Tell us what are the indigenous fabrics of Manipur.
We use a lot of muga silk, but our muga is very different in texture than the Assamese muga silk. We use a lot of rani muga, which is a sheer fabric, almost like the organza, and they are great for making beautiful saris or dupattas. There’s this little thicker muga called the khurkhul muga and I use a lot of it to make experimental lehengas. Also, the weaving techniques in Manipur still do not allow any modern methods to creep in and thus are done in a completely traditional method with hands. Many communities and tribes inhabit our state, and each of them has their own unique style of weaving, using mostly wool and woollen fabrics to make traditional attire like phanek and enaphi. I also love using Russian silk and khurkhul muga. I have made some beautiful lehengas with it. Sadly, there’s no market for lehengas in Manipur. And in other states, a greater number of people prefer more bling in their wedding outfits. But at the same time, people are also increasingly appreciating and valuing good handloom work. And I got a great response in my recent show in Istanbul.
Tell us about the collection you showcased in the recently concluded Global India Couture Week.
I had a nice collection of Western and fusion wear and I used a lot of motifs and designs that highlight the inherent beauty of Manipur in every way, such as, flowers and animals. There are interesting silhouettes like lehengas, saris, and menswear like kurtas and sherwanis in fabrics like khurkhul with delicate embroidery work and traditional motifs. I use a lot of creams and ivories as my central colour palettes with a touch of colours of the season.
What are the wardrobe essentials for men and women?
For women, one pair of white trousers, a beautiful sari, one black one-piece dress, and a scarf will style any look. For men, a black basic t-shirt and nice denim trousers work. They should also have kurtas in nudes and ivories.
Who’s your fashion icon?
Sabyasachi Mukherjee is my favourite fashion icon since he makes outstanding designs that are always rooted in Bengal.
Whom would you love to dress up in your designs?
I always wanted to dress up Sushmita Sen in my outfits, and she has luckily worn me. If given a chance, I would love to see Kylie Minogue in my creations.