This designer label’s festive edit is inspired by the Sundarbans and underscores feminine power
NIFT Alumna Writuparna Kar’s four-year-old label Wrii Studio has already cemented its place among the frontrunners in emerging homegrown city labels for its thrust on unusually complex designs in jamdani weaves. Her festive collection Abhaya, too has fresh notes of design narrative inspired by the rich cultural heritage and resilience of the Sunderbans. This collection brings together the elegance of pure cotton in delicate pastel shades with contrasting, nature-in-spired motifs that capture the essence of survival and strength. The motifs, drawn from the traditional art of Sunderban’s patachitra, tell stories of the daily struggles faced by the region’s inhabitants—stories of cohabiting with the wild, enduring the harshness of nature, and standing firm against the threats that lurk in the shadows. “Each sari is a reflection of these tales, a tribute to the resilience and courage that define the people of Sunderbans. The inspiration behind Abhaya is deeply rooted in the parallels between the survival instincts of the locals and the daily battles many women face in their lives. The collection draws a poignant comparison between the unseen dangers in a woman’s life and the ever-present threat of tigers in the wild, symbolising the hidden perils that women often confront,” says Writuparna. To this effect , Writuparna has embraced the complexities of traditional craftsmanship, opting for fine cotton in contrasting colours that allows for a delicate yet striking aesthetic.
Tell us about Abhaya.
The collection features pure cotton handwoven jamdani saris, emphasising soft pastel shades with vibrant, nature-inspired elements. The textures are delicate, yet resilient, reflecting the strength of the women we draw inspiration from. Each sari is intricately designed with motifs that tell stories of survival and empowerment, paying homage to the rich cultural heritage of Sunderban’s patachitra art. We’ve woven in symbols that carry profound meanings: the tiger represents strength and the fierce courage needed to face life’s challenges head on; the elephant stands for wisdom and the quiet power of patience and memory; the fish symbolises adaptability, the ability to move with grace through turbulent waters; and the chicken serves as a poignant emblem of resilience—the everyday courage to nurture, protect, and persist, even in the face of adversity.
What’s the idea behind this collection?
The idea is to celebrate the spirit of resilience and protection during the festive season. Festivals are moments of gathering, reflection, and reverence, where we seek the blessings of divine power. Abhaya embodies the strength and courage that women exhibit daily, with motifs that symbolise both the battles fought and the victories won. This collection is a powerful statement of empowerment, serving as a reminder of the inner strength every woman possesses.
What are the jamdani techniques you have used?
We have embraced the traditional extra-weft jamdani technique, where intricate patterns are woven into the fabric using a supplementary weft. This technique allows us to create visually striking saris with a rich texture. This time, we have explored new dimensions with the technique.
What are the festive trends this year?
This year’s festive trends blend tradition with modern style. People are gravitating towards hand-woven textiles with bold, nature-inspired motifs, and vibrant colours. Comfortable, fluid silhouettes are popular, paired with minimalistic yet striking accessories to keep the focus on the outfit. Sustainable fashion is also gaining traction, with more people choosing eco-friendly fabrics and brands that prioritise ethical practices. Eco-prints, using dyes from natural elements, are also in vogue, adding a unique and environmentally conscious touch to festive wear.
How do you see the demand for handloom and hand-woven saris growing over the years?
There is a noticeable shift towards quality over quantity, with people seeking garments that are not only beautiful, but also have a minimal environmental impact. This trend reflects a broader movement towards conscious fashion, where the story behind the garment and its production process are as important as its aesthetic appeal. Sustainability is a fundamental aspect of our mission. We use hand-woven jamdani techniques, a painstaking process that faces stiff competition from more automated jacquard methods. By continuing to support and showcase this traditional craft, we honour the intricate artistry of handloom weaving. Also, we are promoting block printing through our packaging, further emphasising our commitment to preserving and celebrating traditional techniques. Our focus on natural yarns and dyes, fair labour practices, and sustainable packaging practices reinforces our dedication to environmental responsibility and the preservation of handloom heritage.
What are the five Puja wardrobe essentials?
A classic handwoven sari—whether it’s khadi, jamdani, or silk, a handwoven sari is essential for the festive season. Its timeless elegance and rich texture make it a standout choice. Block print or embroidered festive kurta set that is ideal for daytime events are versatile outfits that are both stylish and comfortable, and handblock printing adds a unique, artisanal touch to your festive wardrobe. Opt for outfits with easy silhouettes that offer both comfort and sophistication. Consider adding overlays to elevate your sari or kurta ensemble. Statement jewellery enhance your festive look, especially bold brass or copper jewellery. Pieces like traditional jhumkas or intricate necklaces can make a significant impact. Lastly, have comfortable footwear.
Choose stylish yet comfortable footwear, such as chic juttis or elegant sneakers, to ensure you enjoy the festivities without compromising on style.
Your upcoming collections?
In our upcoming collections, we are excited to feature block-printed saris adorned with intricate Kantha embroidery. These saris will combine the traditional art of block printing with the rich texture of Kantha stitches, creating a unique fusion of patterns and craftsmanship. The addition of fabric tassel highlights will bring a contemporary edge to the classic designs, enhancing the visual appeal and adding a touch of elegance. Alongside, we will present a series of jamdani stoles that celebrate the timeless beauty of this weaving technique. Each stole will feature carefully crafted patterns and vibrant colours, embodying the essence of traditional jamdani artistry. This collection continues our dedication to sustainable fashion and showcases the intricate skill of handwoven textiles. Also, we are planning to introduce block-printed saris for kids, expanding our range to include festive wear for younger generations.
What are your future plans for your label?
Moving forward, our goal is to expand our reach while staying true to our roots. We plan to collaborate with more artisan clusters, ensuring that traditional crafts are not only preserved but also celebrated on a larger scale. We’re also exploring new markets and platforms to showcase our collections, including exhibitions all over the country as well as international ones. Also, we aim at deepening our commitment to sustainability by experimenting with natural dyes and zero-waste techniques.