Nitya Bajaj unveils Ajrakh: A bold fusion of tradition and modernity in menswear

In a dazzling celebration of craftsmanship and modernity, designer Nitya Bajaj unveiled her highly anticipated menswear collection, Ajrakh, at the inaugural Gentlemen League’s Exclusive Men’s Collection Showcase. This milestone marks a fresh chapter for the designer, blending the exquisite art of ajrakh resist-printing with contemporary silhouettes, tailored for the modern gentleman. As attendees reveled in the vibrant hues and intricate designs, her vision for a festive collection came to life, embodying tradition reimagined.

Transitioning from her established women’s line to men’s wear was a natural evolution for Nitya. “At Label Nitya Bajaj, we celebrate the spirited, experimental women of today,” she explains. “But often, their partners would request twinning outfits for traditional occasions. This sparked the idea of exploring menswear within our workspace.” Thus began the journey into the world of ajrakh, as Nitya crafted a new division, NBMan, driven by a passion for Indian crafts and a desire to cater to this emerging clientele.

The collection showcases the mesmerising craft of ajrakh, which involves intricate resist dyeing and block printing techniques. “Ajrakh is an organic and sustainable process that uses natural ingredients,” she elaborates. In this collection, Nitya introduces new geometric blocks and combines them with her signature sequin embroidery, designed to resonate with the masculinity of modern cuts. The result is a sophisticated balance of tradition and innovation, perfectly suited for festive celebrations.

Drawing inspiration from the rich landscape of the Rann of Kutch, she chose a striking colour palette featuring crimson, maroon, pomegranate, indigo, and noir. “These colours are my favourites—deep jewel tones that embody the essence of the ajrakh tribes,” she notes. Each hue not only celebrates the festive spirit but also pays homage to the craft’s cultural roots.

Her design process is as meticulous as the craft itself. “The process of ajrakh is time-consuming. For this exclusive collection, we developed new geometric patterns juxtaposed with gold sequin and zari hand embroidery,” she shares. This dedication to detail not only enhances the collection’s visual appeal but also underscores the artistry that defines each piece.

A central tenet of the designer’s vision is uplifting the artisans from Gujarat’s Kutch region, who have historically been overlooked. “Ajrakh clusters deserve recognition for their hard work. We aim to create employment opportunities and improve working conditions, showcasing their stories through our modern designs,” she emphasises. This commitment to sustainability and community is woven into the very fabric of the collection.

As Nitya looks to the future, she envisions Ajrakh becoming a staple in every man’s festive wardrobe. “This lightweight collection delivers an embellished festive appeal, perfect for mehendi functions, dhol nights, or destination weddings,” she asserts. With men increasingly experimenting with colour and craft, the Ajrakh collection is poised to make a statement in contemporary men’s fashion, redefining what festive wear can be.

Price on request. Available online.

— manuvipin@newindianexpress.com