Designer Arshna Raj’s collection Echo unveiled at LFWxFDCI is inspired by fluidity of water
Designer Arshna Raj’s label, Stoique, impressed all at the Lakme Fashion Week x FDCI with its latest summer collection, Echo, which explores how force, time, and repetition, shape fabric and form, drawing inspiration from the fluidity of water. The collection highlights organic evolution, upcycled textiles, and the intimate connection between maker and material. Silhouettes shift between structure and fluidity, while crushed fabrics, embroidered blooms, and woven motifs create an interplay between control and release. Since sustainability and mindful craftsmanship are integral to Stoique’s philosophy, Arshna focuses on high-quality natural fabrics, incorporating khadi sourced from South India, undyed and loom-state textiles, and upcycled fabric strips repurposed into intricate motifs.
Arshna tells us more about the collection after the show.
Water's essence flows through form and fabric in label Stoique's newest collection Echo
Tell us about the Echo collection.
It celebrates craftsmanship in its most immediate form, emphasising the intimacy of tools and the tactile nature of making. Fabrics are manipulated through heat and pressure, mimicking the slow yet relentless power of nature. The colour palette follows this rhythm, oscillating between deep, immersive hues and softer, more playful tones.
How have you used water and its fluid nature as an inspiration?
At its core, Echo explores transformation—how materials, like landscapes, evolve under pressure, repetition, and time. Water became a central metaphor, embodying both control and surrender. Just as water shapes terrain, fabrics in this collection are crushed, pleated, and moulded, shifting between structured forms and fluid drapes. Some pieces feel like still water—calm, reflective—while others capture its move- ment, cascading and flowing with the body.
The colour palette also mirrors this duality, with deep, immersive tones alongside airy, translucent hues. More than just an aesthetic reference, water represents process—the act of making, unmaking, and reshaping—a reflection of both nature’s resilience and human craftsmanship.
Natural fabrics form the backbone of your label. Tell us how difficult or easy it is to source them.
Sourcing natural fabrics is both a commitment and a challenge. The process demands patience, as we prioritise materials that are not just sustainable but also rich in texture and character. Working with artisans and smaller suppliers means each fabric carries a unique story, but it also means navigating availability, constraints, and inconsistencies. However, these limitations often fuel creativity—the unpredictability of natural textiles pushes us to innovate, to adapt. The beauty of working with these materials is that they age, they change, and they hold the memory of every touch and every fold. That organic evolution aligns with our philosophy, making the process just as valuable as the outcome.
Which fabrics do you work with now, and which ones are you planning to use in the future?
Right now, we primarily work with raw silk and handwoven cotton. Looking ahead, we’re interested in expanding our material vocabulary with more experimental weaves, silk blends, and handcrafted textiles that push the dialogue between structure and fluidity. Upcycling and textile manipulation will continue to play a key role, too.
How do you balance the creative and business aspects of fashion?
It’s a constant negotiation. Creativity thrives in exploration, and in uncertainty, while business demands structure, clarity, and long-term vision. The challenge is in keeping them from working against each other. I’ve learned that discipline fuels creativity—having a clear system allows for more freedom in design. At the same time, authenticity is key in business; staying true to the artistic vision is what makes the brand resonate. It’s about knowing when to follow the rules and when to rewrite them.
Who are the best-dressed women in your opinion?
There’s something compelling about women who dress with intelligence—where style is not just about aesthetics, but about presence. Tilda Swinton, for her quiet avant-garde elegance. Cate Blanchett, for the way she wears clothes like a second skin, effortless yet powerful. Rei Kawakubo, for redefining what fashion even means. Zadie Smith, because personal style is also about the way one carries ideas. And, of course, strong women in fashion—Phoebe Philo, for her minimalism that speaks volumes, and Miuccia Prada, for making intellect and quirk coexist beautifully.
Your upcoming collection outline?
The next collection is still taking shape, but it continues the conversation on transformation—how fabric interacts with time, movement, and memory. There’s a growing focus on texture, layering, and pieces that feel like they have lived many lives before arriving here. Expect a balance between sharp structure and soft deconstruction, a deep dive into material innovation, and a colour story that mirrors emotional depth—where hues are not just shades, but moods.