Aisha Rao’s debut couture at ICW 2025 edit pays homage to the maximalist trend
The human imagination is the seedbed of everything we know, and that’s the cornerstone of couturier Aisha Rao’s debut couture collection, Wild at Heart, unveiled at the recently concluded Hyundai India Couture Week. The maximalist edit replete with floral designs and metallic accents is an ode to wilderness.
The collection borrows from the lush natural world, especially the banana leaves, lotus blooms, and palms, underscored by Aisha’s signature fantasy-driven appliqué and surrealist storytelling.
Each piece has structure and softness, geometry and garden, and drapes that flirt with tradition. The silhouettes are sharp but soft and textures include hand-drawn florals set against architectural tailoring. The concept itself is larger-than-life, an unapologetic celebration of maximalism, joy, and whimsy, yet designed with fluidity and wearability in mind.
The colour palette has a fresh feel with the inclusion of molten metallics like brushed rose gold and antique champagne, and solid tones like teakberry and green, besides the pastels.
Inside Aisha Rao’s fantastical couture debut at ICW 2025
How different is the collection from your previous ones?
Wild at Heart marks our debut at India Couture Week, so we wanted to go all out and truly push the needle with both design and craft. While our signature appliqué remains a cornerstone, we have taken it to a whole new level, experimenting with molten metallics, new textures, and wild motifs like cacti and palm trees. For example, one of our lehengas features more than seventy colours, yet no single shade overpowers the other. This kind of precision and balance defines the collection. It is easily the most experimental and exciting collection we’ve ever created.
How much sustainability has been included in the collection?
We began with a zero-waste approach, using the appliqué technique to transform fabric waste into vibrant motifs. As demand grew, sourcing fabric waste at scale became challenging, and we realised we were drifting from our original philosophy. To stay true to our roots, we developed a new technique that merges our signature prints with embellishments that mimic the look of appliqué. The larger goal to continuously innovate and find more mindful ways to minimise waste remains the same.
How has your fashion journey been so far?
The journey has been both challenging and deeply fulfilling. My background in law taught me discipline and structure, while my formal design training at Parsons gave me the creative confidence to experiment fearlessly. Launching the brand felt like stepping into the unknown, but it taught me the value of trusting my instincts and building a narrative-driven identity. Over the years, I’ve learnt that fashion is not just about design but also about problem-solving, adaptability, and understanding people. Every collection has been a lesson in balance, pushing creativity while staying true to the brand’s voice. I’ve also learnt to embrace risk, whether it’s exploring new silhouettes, experimenting, or expanding into global markets.
How much has the Indian wedding fashion scene changed in these years?
The Indian wedding and festive fashion scene has changed significantly. Dressing has become more individualistic and expressive, with women choosing pieces that feel joyful and personal, and men embracing colour and print with confidence. That’s why our pre-draped saris, fishtail lehengas, printed ghararas, playful bandhgalas, layered kurtas, and bundi sets are still popular. Weddings today are grander, and people want to stand out in every event. Hence, silhouettes that also photograph beautifully are in demand.
What has kept you motivated as a designer?
Curiosity and the constant pursuit of fresh ideas keep me going. I draw inspiration from art, architecture, travel, and even the everyday chaos around me. Every collection begins with an idea or story I feel compelled to tell, and that narrative keeps me excited through the entire process. I also believe in challenging myself. Whether it is exploring new techniques, experimenting with unusual colour combinations, or evolving our silhouettes, I stay motivated by pushing beyond what feels comfortable.
What are your plans for the label?
We want to expand our global footprint. We are already present in the United Kingdom, USA, and Canada, and we plan to enter new markets like the UAE and others. Fine jewellery is also on the cards. Jewellery, for me, is integral to couture. It has the power to elevate and complete a look. In time, we plan to build our fine jewellery line that has our signature motifs and playful storytelling. At this India Couture Week (ICW), we’ve taken the first step by collaborating with Shree Jewellery to create abstract floral necklaces, sculptural headpieces, and more, all specially crafted just for this collection.
How has the definition of fashion changed for you?
Fashion has evolved from being purely about creating beautiful garments to something much deeper, involving storytelling, emotion, and identity. It is no longer just about trends but about pieces that resonate and make people feel something. I see fashion as a dialogue, a way to spark joy, confidence, and individuality. That is where the magic lies for me today.
What are some bridal wardrobe must-haves?
A bold lehenga, versatile separates like pre-draped saris, fishtail lehengas, and corset blouses that can be mixed and matched for smaller ceremonies or post-wedding events. For cocktails, pieces like embroidered blazer sets, crystal-detailed corsets, classic silks, and romantic drapes are a must.
Any fashion advice for brides who can’t afford you but still want to dazzle?
Style is all about confidence and individuality. Focus on one element, be it the colour, drape, or jewellery. Invest in well-fitted, versatile pieces that you can restyle for different occasions. Mix heirloom jewellery with a modern sari to stand out.
Do you have any upcoming collections?
We are working on a few exciting capsule drops that extend our maximalist aesthetic into new, wearable formats. There is also a festive collection in the pipeline that blends bold prints with lighter, versatile separates.
What are a few fashion movements in recent years that have impressed you?
One of the most exciting shifts I’ve noticed is how personal and expressive fashion has become. There’s a growing celebration of individuality, and I love how people are styling traditional pieces in completely unexpected ways. The rise of maximalism also speaks to me. More people are embracing bold prints, clashing colours, and layered textures without hesitation. I’m also drawn to the quiet power of re-wearing and mindful fashion. And then there’s the blur between gendered clothing. The growing fluidity, the mix of silhouettes, and the freedom to express without constraint make fashion an exciting affair.