Amit Aggarwal’s latest collection Arcanum uses DNA as the narrative core
In the recently concluded Hyundai India Couture Week, if any collection stood out for being honest to couture and transport the audience to the realm of thoughts through the designs, it had to be Amit Aggarwal’s thought-provoking range called Arcanum. In this edit, Amit used the DNA as the narrative core, taking the audience through a dystopian travel in time and making them soul search for identity, essence, and transformation of the human race.
To translate DNA into couture Amit worked around structure, repetition, and nuance. He used bio-inspired polymers and recycled materials not just for their sculptural potential but because like DNA, they carry memory and consequence. In the silhouettes one would notice asymmetries, variations in patterning and texture that mimic genetic mutations.
“The idea of using DNA as the narrative core emerged from a deeply personal reflection on what defines us beneath the surface. In couture, we often speak of heritage, of craftsmanship passed through generations. But I began to wonder, what if we traced that heritage deeper, beyond fabric and form to the very code that shapes who we are,” explains Amit as he takes us through Arcanum.
How Amit Aggarwal turned DNA into design language
What’s the idea behind this particular edit?
This couture collection is a space where science met soul—where couture is not just worn but embodied. It’s a reminder that even in the hyper-constructed world of fashion, our truest form begins within.
How different are the designs from your previous presentations?
Arcanum is a distinct shift from the previous collections. While previously Antevorta looked ahead inspired by foresight, future identities, and the idea of evolution, Arcanum turns inward. It’s more introspective, rooted in mysticism, emotion, and the unseen aspects of self. Design-wise, Arcanum has a darker, more elemental energy. The cuts are sharper, the textures more intense, and the palette more grounded in earth and shadow. Arcanum explores transformation. It’s about rediscovering inner power, and the garments reflect that more structured, protective, almost ritualistic in form. The collections carry our signature language of structure and innovation, but Arcanum speaks in a quieter, more intimate voice—one that invites reflection as much as it commands attention.
Tell us how occasion wear preferences are changing.
Occasion wear today is evolving rapidly, people are moving beyond traditional silhouettes and looking for pieces that are expressive, fluid, and personal. There’s a growing preference for fusion styles, lighter constructions, and bolder colours that reflect individuality rather than convention. This year, we’re seeing a strong shift toward structured yet wearable couture—outfits that blend heritage with a modern edge.
What are the occasion wear must-haves?
For me, occasion wear must-haves are pieces that merge impact with individuality. A structured sari or a pre-draped silhouette that blends tradition with ease is timeless. A sculpted blouse or corset that can be styled across outfits adds versatility. Metallic accents, engineered drapes, and a bold jacket or cape can instantly elevate a look. And most important, one statement piece makes occasion wear truly unforgettable.
As an Indian designer, what’s your take on the global labels taking design inspiration from heritage Indian designs?
I believe Indian heritage is a vast, rich source of inspiration, and it’s natural for global designers to be drawn to its depth and diversity. However, it’s crucial that this inspiration comes with respect, understanding, and acknowledgment of the artisans and traditions behind it. Heritage is not just aesthetics, it carries stories, culture, and craftsmanship that deserve to be honoured authentically. As an Indian designer, I see it as an opportunity for dialogue and collaboration rather than appropriation. When done thoughtfully, it can elevate Indian crafts on a global stage and create new interpretations that celebrate both tradition and innovation.
What are the emerging design elements in occasion and bridal wear that you are observing?
In occasion and bridal wear, I’m seeing a fascinating blend of tradition with bold, contemporary design elements. Emerging trends include architectural silhouettes that challenge conventional shapes, and a focus on fluidity paired with structure, think sculpted drapes and asymmetric cuts. Metallic and iridescent fabrics are gaining prominence, adding a futuristic sheen while maintaining regal elegance. Colours are also evolving beyond classic reds and golds to jewel tones and unexpected hues that feel fresh yet timeless. Ultimately, wearability and personalisation are becoming paramount, clients want pieces that tell their story and can be reimagined beyond the event.
What are the other collections you are working on—both in couture and prêt?
Alongside Arcanum, I’m developing a prêt collection that focuses on wearable futurism, pieces that combine clean lines with unexpected textures, designed for everyday empowerment. It’s about making innovation accessible without compromising elegance.