Handwoven heritage meets haute lace in Swati & Sunaina’s latest collection
From the handlooms of Varanasi to the lace ateliers of France, Swati & Sunaina’s Varanasi to Versailles series is a design dialogue, a cultural meditation, and a rare meeting point between two worlds that have long informed each other, often in ways we overlook.
Swati & Sunaina’s commitment to ethical weaving and design integrity
Following the debut of Chapter I in 2024, which explored Indian textile traditions through the aesthetic lens of French classicism, Chapter II continues the story—not as a sequel, but as a deliberate completion. The focus now shifts to French textile heritage, with lace as its protagonist, reinterpreted for the Indian silhouette.
Swati Agarwal and Sunaina Jalan co-founded Swati & Sunaina Gold with a shared mission: to restore the forgotten brilliance of Banarasi weaving. Both born into traditional Marwari families, they were introduced to fine textiles early in life. At the heart of their practice is a commitment to ethical production and honest craftsmanship. “Our aim is simple,” says Swati. “We want to give our weavers fair conditions and our clients pure, thoughtful products.” In conversation with Swati:
What inspired you to revisit the Indo-French dialogue through textiles for Chapter II?
We’ve been studying various weaving and design traditions across cultures—like the Gyasar weave from the Tibetan tradition in our Gyasar collection, or the miniature scale of Persian design in Aab-e-Zar. France and Benares share a historical connection through the Jacquard machine—a French invention that revolutionised handloom weaving. We made research trips to textile museums across France, and were deeply moved by the sophistication of their work. But handweaving is almost extinct there. Translating their designs using our skills on handlooms became the core idea behind this collection.
Lace plays a central role in this capsule. What drew you to this textile language?
In France, we saw how beautifully lace integrates with fine silks. The craftsmanship behind Chantilly or Guipure lace is incredibly complex—there are only a few ateliers still practicing the technique in its original form. Pairing that with our pure zari saris, woven with the finest handloom methods, felt like a perfect marriage.
The use of Banarasi elements here is subtle—hidden in linings and pleats. Why so understated?
The collection was presented in two phases. In phase I, we used Indian weaving with French lace trimmings and blouses. Now, in phase II, we are presenting French lace saris with Banarasi trimmings and blouses. This dual approach completes our study. In both cases, the integration felt seamless and beautiful.
Were there specific lace traditions or regions in France that inspired you?
Yes, especially the town of Caudry, where traditional lace-making is still alive. The purity of their process and the dedication to raw materials was inspiring.
What does ‘completion’ mean in the context of this two-part collection? Is this a full stop—or a comma?
It’s definitely a comma. The more we explore, the more connections we uncover. We hope to keep deepening this dialogue.
How do you think the Chennai audience will receive this collection?
Chennai has an evolved audience that values authenticity and craft. We’ve always received warmth and appreciation here, so we’re hopeful for a positive response.
Price starts at Rs 1,50,000. August 19 and 20, 2025. At The Folly, Amethyst, Royapettah.
—manuvipin@newindianexpress.com
@ManuVipin