Gaurav Jai Gupta to showcase his signature metallic sari collection in Chennai

Renowned designer Gaurav Jai Gupta is back to captivate fashion enthusiasts in Chennai with an exclusive showcase of his signature metallic sari collection. With over 15 years of pioneering work in textile design, Gaurav’s innovative approach has continuously redefined the relationship between traditional Indian fabrics and contemporary fashion.

This exhibition celebrates the seamless fusion of Indian handloom techniques with modern silhouettes, spotlighting collections such as The Sky is Mine, Moonrise, and Irreverence. Akaaro has garnered global recognition for its cutting-edge designs that blend heritage with modernity, pushing boundaries and creating fresh, dynamic expressions of textile art.In an exclusive interview, Gaurav reflects on his creative journey, the inspiration behind his iconic collections, and the evolving landscape of Indian textile design.

Q. What was your vision when conceptualising this exhibition?

A. Akaaro has always been about celebrating the essence of Indian handloom while pushing its boundaries to create contemporary, relevant pieces. This exhibition is a showcase of our signature pieces and reflects how textile design in India is evolving — not just as a craft but as a powerful medium of artistic expression that resonates globally.

Q. The collections include The Sky is Mine, Moonrise, and Irreverence. Could you tell us more about the inspiration behind them?

A. The Sky is Mine was inspired by Klein Blue, named after the abstract French artist Yves Klein, who invented this vibrant, intense hue in 1958. I first discovered the colour in 2018 at the Centre Pompidou in Paris, and it took me two years to develop the collection, which was ready just before the pandemic. Moonrise was inspired by the hues and tones of Wes Anderson’s films and was showcased at Lakmé Fashion Week last year.

Q. How do you approach the fusion of ancient handloom techniques with modern silhouettes?

A. It’s a delicate balance. The key is to respect the integrity of traditional weaving while reimagining it in fresh ways. The challenge lies in maintaining the authenticity of handloom while ensuring it complements contemporary silhouettes. Through experimentation, I’ve discovered innovative ways to manipulate textures, densities, and structures to achieve this fusion seamlessly. At Akaaro, we have constantly been doing design interventions in weaving, particularly with our use of metallic threads and other experimental work with our stretch pallu kinji saris and structural works.

Q. The use of colour is integral to your designs. How do you go about selecting unexpected colour palettes?

A. We follow an extremely detailed research and design process to arrive at any elements of design, be it colour, pattern, scale or texture. I think we have managed to establish a very strong visual language with colour and scale at its core. The unexpected colour palette has now become a defining part of our body of work and over a period of time, it now comes naturally to us. There is always an element of surprise.

Q. How do you maintain the integrity of traditional weaving techniques while ensuring that the final piece feels contemporary?

A. We specialise in studio textiles wherein we brought the entire weaving process into our studio set-up right at the brand’s inception. It enables us to operate as a design lab wherein we are constantly experimenting with various aspects of woven textiles. Our starting point is not tradition or heritage, rather we follow a well established internal research and design process to arrive at design solutions.

Q. How do you balance international influences with your Indian heritage?

A. Sustainability and minimalism resonate deeply with my philosophy. I draw from global design movements, especially Japanese minimalism, but my Indian heritage remains the foundation. It’s about creating a synthesis where the global and the local co-exist, enhancing each other rather than competing.

Q. How do you navigate the delicate balance between staying true to your Indian roots while also catering to an international audience?

A. Authenticity is key. My Indian roots are intrinsic to my identity, and I don’t dilute that to cater to global tastes. Instead, I present it with a contemporary voice that appeals universally. The narrative is Indian, but the language is global.

Q. How do you hope audiences in Chennai will engage with this exhibition?

A. I hope the audience in Chennai connects with the emotional and tactile aspects of the work. I want them to see handloom not just as a traditional craft but as an evolving art form that speaks to modern sensibilities while rooted in rich cultural history.

Q. Looking ahead, what new directions do you envision for Akaaro?

A. Design-wise, I want to explore new textures, technologies, and interdisciplinary collaborations to expand the horizons of textile craftsmanship. I’m working on a project called Kalchakra that uses ink made from pollution waste. I created an installation based on this concept at the India Art Fair last year. We are also very close to launching our first Mumbai store.

Q. What role do you see handloom and traditional Indian textiles playing in the global fashion industry in the coming years?

A. Handloom and traditional Indian textiles have the potential to lead the global fashion conversation around sustainability and craftsmanship. At Akaaro, I’m committed to showcasing these textiles in ways that are both authentic and avant-garde, positioning them not just as heritage crafts but as the future of fashion.

Price on request. February 7 and 8, 2025. At Collage.

—manuvipin@newindianexpress.com

@ManuVipin