Raw Mango’s Agama celebrates kantha, mashru and the interesting mashru ikat in its silhouettes

In 2008, a serendipitous encounter with the weavers of Chanderi, Madhya Pradesh, set into motion what would become an iconic brand — Raw Mango. Founder and designer Sanjay Garg, whose journey for the brand began at that Cluster Development Programme in Chanderi soon became entranced by the rich, intricate artistry of India’s indigenous textiles. From chanderi’s ethereal weave to the opulent brocades of benarasi silk and the lush textures of mashru — Sanjay’s deep-rooted reverence for heritage textiles propelled him to redefine the contours of luxury in fashion. Today, Raw Mango continues to captivate the hearts of fashion connoisseurs, including a stellar roster of celebrity admirers such as Kiran Rao, Sonakshi Sinha, Aditi Rao Hydari, Alia Bhatt, Katrina Kaif and Deepika Padukone, among many others.

Sanjay’s latest collection, Agama, builds upon the artistic legacy of its predecessor, Garland, which drew considerable attention for its modern interpretations of traditional textiles. Agama, however, marks an evolution — a return to the ancient roots of craftsmanship, intertwined with bold new narratives of form and function. This new edit juxtaposes the familiar elegance of mashru with the intricate artistry of kantha, while also introducing mashru ikat, a harmonious fusion with geometric precision. In conversation with the designer, Sanjay reveals the deep cultural and historical narratives that inform this collection, rooted in centuries of storytelling and weaving.

“Agama takes its name from a Sanskrit word meaning — that which has been passed down from tradition. The story draws from the earliest recorded mention of the kantha textile in Chaitanya Charitamrita, a 500-year-old text by Bengali poet Krishnadasa Kaviraja, which recounts the tale of a mother sending a piece of kantha fabric to her son, the 15th-century saint Chaitanya Mahaprabhu, through a group of travelling pilgrims,” Sanjay begins.

Kantha, an emblematic technique of quilting and embroidery, takes centrestage in Agama, with running stitches that transform discarded fabrics into beautiful, utilitarian works of art. In this collection, kantha is used to create jackets adorned with katran, the patchwork of tiny fabric scraps that come together to form a single cohesive whole. These offcuts, generated during sampling and production, are carefully sorted, dyed and stitched to form the foundation of each jacket, reflecting Raw Mango’s commitment to sustainability and artistry.

“The garments in this edit are rooted in this concept of the nomadic, not limited by geographical boundaries. Imagined as versatile outer shells, the jackets are versatile — for different weathers, different countries, different ages and styles. The silhouettes draw from those seen in Central Asia, worn by travellers and nomadic tribes, that over time have incorporated elements, colours, forms, motifs and textiles from their travels. This created a unique shared aesthetic of Asia — different stories, common heritage,” Sanjay adds.

The Agama collection also revisits mashru, a weaving tradition once practised in Benaras, Gujarat and the Deccan. The Deccan’s distinct variation, incorporating ikat, introduces a striking new dimension to the collection. The mashru ikat, with its pre-dyed silk warp and silk-cotton weft, creates a lustrous silk surface adorned with geometric patterns such as the iconic khanjari (dagger motif), adding a bold, dynamic quality to the garments.

Agama seems like a study in contrasts — familiar and fresh, ancient and contemporary. “The collection predominantly features saris, jackets and skirts in maroon, indigo, dark green, black and natural. Some jackets also have dabu-printed linings in contrasting colours,” the designer concludes.

At the heart of the edit lies Sanjay’s deep reverence for India’s textile heritage, coupled with an unapologetic modernity that speaks to today’s globalised, ever-evolving sensibilities. Each garment carries a history, a story — woven not just from thread, but from the enduring spirit of craft and culture.

INR 29,800 onwards. At Walton Road and available online.

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