Designer Aisha Rao’s new collection Matilda is whimsical and mesmerising
Designer Aisha Rao’s new collection Matilda is a tribute to British author Roald Dahl’s Matilda, an endearing story about a child prodigy and rebel who breaks all the rules with grace and wit. Over the years, her spirit has inspired characters in literature, from Matilde in Gabriel García Márquez’s Love in the Time of Cholera to beloved folktales around the world. Aisha Rao’s collection too, captures the essence of a timeless imagination and strength, as seen in these iconic characters. Matilda features intricate floral appliqués, elaborate threadwork, and embellishments in a colour palette that is equally enchanting, with hues ranging from rich plum and vibrant orange to soft olive and icy blue. There is an array of maximalist designs — from extravagant, appliquéd lehengas that bring new dimension to Aisha Rao’s signature style, to her iconic bustier dresses reimagined to celebrate both form and structure, and tailored pant suits.
What was the idea behind the collection?
Roald Dahl’s Matilda resonated with me because of her strength, wit, and rebellious spirit. However, the collection isn’t limited to just one story. Matilda represents resilience and imagination—traits found in countless literary characters and folklore worldwide. I wanted to explore those qualities through fashion—bold prints, intricate appliqué work, and vibrant colours.
How different is this one from your previous collections?
I had a distinct vision for the embroideries in Matilda and I love how it turned out. These embroideries are complex and unique. A never seen before quality to them despite all the innovation that we have already done in the past is quite mesmerising.
What inspires your designs?
Well, there’s no steady set of influences. Each collection has been different. My inspiration in the past literally stemmed from a character’s name in a movie on one occasion, or a change that I want to see reflected in my environment/society. But yes, I do go back to nature and travel time and again to give expression to those influences and tie them all together. Fresh concepts keep me going – I don’t like doing the same thing over and over again.
You started your brand with upcycled occasion wear. How else are you carrying on with your sustainable efforts?
Sustainability began with upcycling fabric scraps into our signature appliqué pieces, a practice that remains central to our design process. We’re continuously exploring new ways to be mindful—whether by minimising textile waste or refining our production methods.
Do you think the Indian occasion wear market has reached a saturation point?
I think that the Indian occasion wear market isn’t slowing down anytime soon. More and more people want their outfits to turn heads and create unforgettable moments. They’re always on the hunt for something fresh and unique—pieces that deliver a “never-before-seen” experience.
What’s trending in bridal and occasion wear this winter?
This season, brides are redefining wedding fashion with a focus on individuality, comfort, and versatility. Brides are moving away from overly traditional looks. They are instead, embracing outfits that combine cultural elements with modern and experimental designs. They also love fusion styles, blending Indian and Western elements. I’ve observed a growing preference for “fit and flare” styles, and we’ve embraced this trend in our latest collection.