Designer Abhishek Dutta unveils his winter capsule collection with an exclusive shoot with Indulge
With the winter almost on its way out, Kolkata is making the most of what is left of it, be it soaking in the soft winter sun, having the best of bakes and roasts, or stepping out in style in smart winter attires. As the chill in the air is gearing up to slowly dissolve into the cool charm of the spring breeze, fashion too is slowly making a transition into something that is smug enough to keep you warm during the light winter days. Keeping the change of season in mind, designer Abhishek Dutta has come up with a limited edition winter edit called Tree of Life that beautifully captures the ethos of winter etched out in his signature designs spattered with striking patches of leather work.
Just as the tree of life symbolises immortality, Abhishek’s collection is a timeless creation that actually can be worn across the seasons and has the dominant colour green in all its vibrant shades. Dutta tells us, “Winter is Kolkata is a short-lived affair and keeping that in mind, I have created a capsule edit that can spill over to your spring wardrobe, making the outfits in the range a versatile choice for any fashion-conscious buyer. The silhouettes have a variety of pieces in comfortable fabrics that you can wear across the seasons and for several occasions and mixing and matching them intelligently”.
As we gear up to face the heat in another couple of months, we decided to curate four exclusive winter looks out of Dutta’s creations as a swansong to the outgoing winter. On the sidelines of the busy shoot, Abhishek takes us through the very grungy yet swish collection of his besides sharing a few tips on how to make the most of this remaining wintry season fashionably.

Tell us all about your winter capsule collection.
This time we have unveiled an enchanting winter festive collection, drawing inspiration from the timeless concept of the Tree of Life. Just like the tree of life, our collection too aims at transcending seasons and having a timelessness about the outfits. The collection features remarkable 3D architectural pieces that showcase intricate hand embroidery and bespoke digital prints, seamlessly blending tradition with modernity.

A standout aspect of the collection is its unconventional mix of materials. I have incorporated our signature fabrics like denim and leather to create a bold yet refined aesthetic. We have a wide range of silhouettes this time, right from the statement pieces such as bomber jackets, skirts, and corsets, to the very innovative fusion wear like sari gowns, fishtail lehengas, kurta jackets and more, so that one can mix and match and repeat the outfits according to the occasions, thereby underscoring the wearability factor.
Keeping in line with the collection’s inspiration which is tree of life, the design elements have been accentuated by captivating and intricate 3D branches and leaves, crafting surreal yet couture-like garments that celebrate both nature and artistry. With its unique combination of textures and shapes, our latest winter festive collection promises to be a visual feast, perfect for those looking to make a distinctive statement this season.

What are the fashion trends this winter season?
During winter one thing that never goes out of fashion is the art of layering. One can think of smart layering in terms of trenches, well-structured boleros, and flowing capes which are definitely the flavour of the season. Choose them in metallic and shimmery hues for an impressive winter look. Besides these, bold statement lapels and wide legged bottoms are also roaring trends this season.
Since in Kolkata winter is usually short-lived and not so harsh, it is easy to style yourself with more of those stylish open jackets in dobby and heavy fabrics rather than going for those heavy woollen options. Interesting woven scarves and stoles in light wool, Banarasi silk fabric, silk or cotton-silk definitely spikes up the style quotient. So do quirky and well-chosen hats which also play an important role in morning brunches, picnics, or a day-out during the ongoing Derby season. Just make sure to choose them correctly and according to occasion.

What are the upcoming spring trends?
Upcoming spring trends will be all about anti-fits, oversized clothes and comfort if I have to predict the broader fashion picture. Colour palettes will see a domination of pastel notes and earthy tones which will play a key role in all kinds of ensembles. We will also see a huge comeback of jumpsuits and shift dresses in their comfortable and fluid avatars. With GenZ preferring a balanced mix of comfort and style, individuality will surely overrule trends and become the new trendsetter. So, feel bold enough to choose and set your own trends.

What about the gruelling summer season that will arrive in no time soon?
The summer will also be essentially ruled by the pastels and the evergreen floral notes. With mocha mousse or espresso being the Pantone colour of the year, the beautiful shade is definitely going to be present in all our wardrobes. But since we as Indians are always inclined towards a bit more brighter notes, colours like lavender, and corals in shades of pink, red and orange too will be taking a fair share of our wardrobes.
The romanticism and boho chic factors in fashion are big this summer with effortless styles and relaxed silhouettes making a comeback. Florals in any shape and form, be it prints, patchwork, or embroidery will as usual be prevalent. So, having them in different colours and cutwork highlights is a must.

Ultra-high waistlines specially with culottes, capris, and pants, in general, will trend too. So, team them up with sheer white shirts to create a stunning look. Dropped waist dresses are going to be really big this season, so, stock them up and last but not the least, the metallics are going to stay with sparking beige and copper being hot favourites with the designers.
How much have the fashion choices evolved since the time of the pandemic?
Fashion has evolved post Covid and fashionista are looking for unique styles and offerings from designers around the world to fit their aesthetics, especially in times like this when standing out in the crowd is becoming more relevant for them than to follow the usual trend. Also, people have started really spending on couture pieces too. What’s also noteworthy is how the demand for creations from designer labels has led to the spurt in pret wear options from renowned designer houses and this will continue to grow.

What are the plans for you label?
This year, our brand is looking at getting into athleisure wear, which previously hasn't been a part of the brand. While keeping the brand aesthetics intact, I am planning to explore this segment since it is gaining much popularity. Though it’s a tough call with our regular couture line production in place, we will be coming up with a stylish range of athleisure wear this year only. Besides, we are planning to explore different markets and Australia is definitely where we are heading for this year with a showcase lined up in Sydney and a few more new places we plan to explore.
What’s your summer collection going to be like?
Our summer line will be all about athleisure and a unique showcase is planned already for end of February or first week of March with a surprise entry of a few Olympians on the runway showcasing our creations. The collection’s overarching aesthetics harps on minimalism with a twist. The colour palette will have shades of corals and beige offset with brighter notes like camel and scarlet. We will have a different play with textures and trimmings and our quintessential 3D printed custom trimming like zipper pullers will be there. Graphic prints to relaxed styles will prevail in this collection.
Pics: Javed Ibrahim / models: Swagata Das, Priyanka Das, Amita Agni Ghosh / Makeup: Bhaskar Biswas / Location: Country Road