Redefining the sari in Manipur, the latest edit from Nupi, Revival, is a new favourite!

When Nupi — meaning ‘woman’ in Meiteilon — first emerged on the fashion landscape in October 2022, it was with a quiet yet striking confidence. Debuting at the Manipuri Weddings Shopping Festival, their fusion kurti suits sold out almost instantly, hinting at a brand with not just vision but resonance. But just as momentum began to build, the Manipur crisis of May 2023 forced an abrupt and painful pause. For many, it could have marked an ending. For Nupi, it became a turning point.

In October 2024, the label re-emerged — not with hesitation, but with a bold reinvention. Pivoting from kurtis to saris, the rebirth signalled a decisive embrace of elegance, strength and cultural identity. The new silhouettes bore the spirit of resilience and were infused with contemporary styling that didn’t just nod to the Northeast but let it shine unapologetically.

At the heart of this evolution is Potsangbam Susma Shija, a designer whose journey mirrors her label’s philosophy — rooted in authenticity, shaped by resilience and committed to reinvention. With no formal training at the outset, Susma began purely from a place of passion. The label now has its fair share of celebrity fans including Manipuri actresses such as Soma Laishram, Bala Hijam and Biju Ningombam. Their previous collection, Silent Authority, was a stirring tribute to working women — an exploration of power dressed in subtlety.

“It fused understated, elegant colours with bold Manipuri motifs, creating saris that transition seamlessly from the boardroom to evening gatherings,” says Susma. Now, with Revival, their latest edit, Susma once again leans into nostalgia — but this time, with an eye on timelessness and emotional connection. We catch up with her for a quick chat on the new collection.

“Revival, is a heartfelt ode to the timeless elegance of the 1970s and ’80s. Through this line, we reawaken the classic spirit of those decades, weaving in iconic Manipuri motifs that once defined an era. Each piece is designed to transport the wearer to a time of effortless grace, where tradition and nostalgia meet in vibrant harmony,” Susma begins.

Far from being merely retro-inspired, Revival is a narrative stitched in memory and modernity. “This collection draws deeply from my love for vintage design — the unmistakable class and quiet elegance of women from past eras. At the same time, it celebrates the fierce, unapologetic spirit of today’s women. I felt merging these two worlds would create a powerful dialogue between timeless sophistication and contemporary strength,” the designer explains.

The collection’s signature lies in its intricate motifs — miniature designs that feel like delicate whispers from the past. “Revival breathes life into intricate, miniature motifs that whisper stories from a bygone era. These delicate designs were beloved by women in their vibrant twenties during the 1970s and ’80s. For them, these patterns evoke instant nostalgia, while for today’s generation, they feel like hidden heirlooms rediscovered in their mothers’ or grandmothers’ wardrobes — creating a beautiful bridge between memory and modernity,” Susma tells us.

These motifs sit against a serene colour story, carefully curated to evoke softness and subtle depth. “We’ve embraced a palette of airy, understated hues that set a serene, sophisticated tone. Think Misty Blue, Blush Quartz, Sandstone Beige, Seafoam Aqua, Lemon Sorbet, Lilac Whisper, Peach Fuzz and Bare Nude. These soft bases are complemented by deeper, richer shades for the intricate motifs — like Midnight Plum, Forest Moss and Charcoal Slate — creating a subtle yet striking interplay of light and depth,” she adds.

True to Nupi’s core values, fabric choices also remain steeped in wearability and quiet luxury. “We’ve curated fabrics that celebrate both comfort and quiet luxury. The collection features airy 100 percent cotton for effortless wearability, cotton blends for a touch of modern structure and pure organza woven with delicate zari threads to add a soft, shimmering dimension,” the designer explains.

While Revival marks a moment of reconnection with the past, Susma is already mapping the future. “We’re already immersed in developing our next chapter, an edit unlike anything seen before. This collection boldly reinterprets tribal artistry through a couture lens, fusing audacious motifs onto saris in a completely original way. Expect striking patterns rendered in unexpected, avant-garde colourways — each piece crafted to challenge convention and celebrate the fearless spirit of modern femininity,” Susma concludes.

INR 3,098 onwards. Available online.

Email: romal@newindianexpress.com

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