This collection celebrates Manipur’s rich heritage

ABER, 11 Tareng’s latest collection, is inspired by the vibrant colours of gulal from Manipur’s Yaosang (Holi) festival. Combining the timeless craftsmanship of Khurkhul silk, woven using 2,000-year-old traditional weaving techniques, with Meitei motifs and contemporary designs, Aber celebrates cultural heritage and the spirit of renewal. Founders Jayshree Koijam and Reena Ahanthem, both hailing from Imphal, Manipur, share their vision.

“Despite the deep artistry and cultural significance behind these crafts from Northeast India, like Khurkhul silk weaving, they often don’t receive the attention or appreciation they deserve on a wider platform. By featuring Aber, we hope to shine a light on these remarkable crafts,” says Jayshree.

She tells us that Yaosang was the main inspiration, which is why the bright colours and flowy drapes depict the onset of spring or Basanta. “It is a collection celebrating Khurkhul silk’s marriage with colours. We wanted to show how Khurkhul silk, with its natural sheen, plays with the vibrancy of the colours chosen for this particular collection. The main idea is to showcase the Khurkhul silk’s versatility. With that in mind, in this collection, we have mindfully used little or no embroidery in some of the garments so that the focus is solely on the colour of the fabric,” explains Jayshree.

Elaborating on the significance of using the silk in the collection, Reena says, “Thangjing-Tangkhai and Moirang Phijen are among the most iconic motifs in Manipur’s rich textile heritage. Traditionally woven into handloom fabrics, these designs carry deep cultural significance. For example, Moirang Phijen is closely associated with the legendary love story of Khamba and Thoibi, while Thangjing-Tangkhai motifs are linked to religious and mythological beliefs. Any Meitei can instantly recognise these patterns, no matter where they are in the world or in what form they appear.”

Walking us through how these traditional patterns are integrated into contemporary silhouettes such as lehengas and capes, Reena states, “Just as the paisley motif—originally from Persia but widely recognised through Kashmiri shawls—has become synonymous with Indian textiles, we aim to share Manipur’s intricate motifs with a global audience. By integrating them into contemporary silhouettes, we celebrate our heritage and make it more accessible to the modern world.”

Narrating how the designers’ personal journey from Manipur to Delhi shaped the brand’s creations, Jayshree says, “It’s the sounds and smells of the two distinct worlds, where we feel at home yet always shifting between them. Silhouettes and colours are inspired by Delhi, while the delicate embroideries are influenced by Manipuri motifs.”

She further adds that mulberry silk is synonymous with Manipuri fashion. “We wanted to pay homage to that. Also, our traditional jewellery is another aspect that we want to explore in the future. We see a lot of design potential in both, so this was an introduction of both to see where they can be incorporated and elevated in the future,” she signs off.

Prices start at Rs 53,000. Available online.

—manuvipin@newindianexpress.com