This Diwali, Subiksha Shivakumar stuns in label Urmil’s new festive edit, Silent Fold
Besides all the illuminations, sweets, firecrackers, and rangoli, Diwali is also the time when you shine and glitter in your sartorial best. To sync in with the festival of lights, label Urmil has come up with a festive edit, Silent Fold, which is understated glam and timeless chic in equal parts. As sisters Prerna Singh and Ritika Singh Goyal took us through their label’s stylish line-up, we couldn’t resist curating four looks out of the edgy collection for our Diwali special cover this week.
Subiksha Shivakumar brings label Urmil’s festive vision to life
As plans progressed, renowned model Subiksha Shivakumar came on board as our cover girl, and we shot these images in Mumbai. The dusky beauty from the South lit up the shoot with her looks and oomph and also shared everything we needed to know about her fashion, work and pickle enterprise. Excerpts from a chat with Ritika and Prerna.
Take us through your collection Silent Fold .
Ritika: Silent Fold is an exploration of textures, layers, and handwork where fabric becomes sculpture. The colour story moves through antique ivory, sage, and black, punctuated with metallics and pearl accents. Cuts are sharp yet fluid, and silhouettes like jackets, skirts, saris, and lehengas have been reimagined with architectural folds and draped layering. Fabrics range from silk and organza to textured weaves, elevated with pearls, mother-of-pearl, metal, and string embroidery. Silhouettes balance the traditional and the contemporary, making the collection timeless yet striking.
How different is it from the previous collections?
Prerna: My earlier works leaned towards romantic fluidity (Poetry of Love) and sharper artsy minimalism (Anti Altar). Silent Fold bridges those two worlds. The collection is inspired by the quiet strength of folds in fabric, nature and life. A fold is both concealment and revelation, fragility, and power. We wanted to translate that metaphor into couture.
What are the elements you’ve played around with and highlighted this time?
Prerna: We have deconstructed the Indian staples and reassembled them with pearl embroidery, layered strings, appliqué, and unconventional textures. It’s about making Indianwear sculptural yet wearable.
What’s trending this winter festive season in Indianwear?
Ritika: Ivory and antique tones are becoming seasonless. Pearls, metallics, and textured embroidery are dominating, while structured jackets over layered drapes are emerging as strong festive statements.
What inspires you?
Prerna: Art, right from origami to modern textures, inspires us constantly. Over the years, we have grown more experimental with construction and materiality, while still deeply rooted in Indian handwork.
What are the festive wardrobe must-haves?
Ritika: For women: structured jackets and versatile ivory separates. For men: statement short kurta jackets and textured trousers.
Who is the best dressed female celebrities in your eyes?
Prerna: Sonam Kapoor Ahuja for her experimental silhouettes and bringing Indian fashion on a global platform.
What are your other upcoming collections?
Ritika: Alongside Silent Fold, we are working on expanding our ecru line and Anti Altar, focusing on contemporary separates with intricate detailing.
Pictures: Aryaan Khambatta
Makeup: Ashlyn Lobo
Hair: Navya Chawla
Jewellery: Amama
Production Assistant: Sumiran Goel
Location: NAYAB by THC (facilitated by The Purple Boat)
F&B Partners: The Bigg Small Cafe + Bar
Shoot coordinated by Esha Aphale
