Poila Baisakh style guide ft Idhika Paul and 3 Kolkata designers

Saanjh is a study of transition. It draws from the in-between, when light softens, colours settle, and contrast dissolves into harmony. The collection has handwoven natural white fabrics with a single tone appearing as stripes, panels, or gentle surface shifts. The palette is intentional and restrained, comprising black, blue, and blush. Together with white, they create compositions that feel both graphic and understated. Silhouettes are fluid, unhurried, and breathable. Cuts remain clean, volumes relaxed, and detailing minimal, allowing the textile and construction to take centre stage.

There is a visible shift towards understated luxury. Lightweight textiles, tonal dressing, and subtle detailing are becoming more relevant, especially for intimate and day-time celebrations. Saris are timeless essentials, especially for weddings and festive occasions, but interpreted in lighter, more breathable fabrics for summer, along with some embellishments. Alongside that, easy-going tunics, dresses, and coordinated sets have become equally important.

For us, the starting point is always textile and colour. Our inspiration comes from observing textures, colours, and materials. A handloom, in itself, holds endless possibilities—each weave, variation, and imperfection offering something new to explore.

Craft and process play an equally important role. We are deeply inspired by understanding the loom, the behaviour of yarn, and the hands behind the making. It’s this dialogue between material and maker that ultimately shapes our designs.

Deeper neutrals and grounded tones like inky blues, muted blush, rustic orange and earthy off-whites.

We aim at continuing to evolve handwoven textiles that feel relevant and contemporary, while staying rooted in craft. There is a strong focus on refining our design language, expanding our textile explorations, and building more thoughtful, longlasting collections.

We are currently working on our festive season ’26 collection, exploring a richer colour vocabulary and embellishments. Expect highly wearable silhouettes that can move beyond a single event and be styled in multiple ways.

Wildflower celebrates effortless femininity inspired by flowers found freely in nature. The palette includes bright fuchsia, lime green, teal blue, and touches of marigold and coral. We’ve used light fabrics like chanderi, cotton silk, and organza, with fluid silhouettes such as tiered dresses, overlays with pants, knee-length dresses, and relaxed kurta sets. The focus is on delicate floral embroideries and soft textures, with bold appliques on pieces that feel light yet festive. This collection is lighter and more relaxed, with softer embroideries and more fluid silhouettes. The focus was on creating effortless Spring Summer wear. We’ve used delicate beadwork, silk patchworks and hand detailing to add depth. Textures come through layering, soft gathers and subtle fabric contrasts.

Summer weddings are leaning towards lighter fabrics, softer colours and comfortable silhouettes. Pieces like flowy light lehengas, and crop top palazzo sets with touches of gold, gota, and thread work are trending.

Gold-on-gold for Indian wear or mid-tones like lime green and blush pink.

We are currently working on new festive collections with richer colours and textures while continuing to introduce seasonal capsules like Wildflower.

It is a contemporary exploration of occasion wear that moves away from the traditional idea of dressing and instead celebrates individuality and personal expression. The palette is rooted in deep colours like blacks, ochres, antique golds, muted reds and earthy tones. Rather than relying on predictable festive colours, the collection plays with moody hues that feel powerful yet intimate.

The silhouettes are fluid and layered. We’ve experimented with draped skirts, structured cropped blouses, sculptural jackets and relaxed separates. Textures are a major part of the collection. Fabrics include silk, organza, georgette and light festive fabrics that allow movement. The embroideries are intricate yet modern, using pearls, metal elements, beads and dimensional embroidery techniques that create sculptural surfaces rather than flat surfaces.

Wedding fashion today is becoming far more personal and expressive. People are moving towards lighter silhouettes, unconventional colours and pieces that can be styled multiple ways. There’s also a shift towards separates, statement blouses, layered garments and modern drapes rather than heavy traditional ensembles. A few key pieces that work beautifully for summer weddings include a sculptural statement blouse that can be styled with different skirts or drapes, a draped skirt and a textured jacket or overlay.

Ochre and deep yellow tones, antique golds, muted reds and rust shades, sage and earthy greens, deep charcoal, and blacks for evening events.

Going forward, we want to continue experimenting with new techniques, textures and storytelling-driven collections. There is also a strong focus on building a design language that feels distinctive, contemporary and rooted in Indian artistry.

We are currently working on upcoming collections that continue exploring texture, narrative and craftsmanship. Some of the ideas revolve around interpreting textiles through contemporary silhouettes. Each collection is designed to feel like a new story while still being part of a larger creative journey.