Couturier Pawan Sachdeva explores sharp tailoring in his latest collection, After Dark
Designing impeccably tailored suits comes naturally to the suave and soft-spoken couturier Pawan Sachdeva. The former international volleyball player has an innate sense of playing around with suit silhouettes that are well-structured yet sit comfortably on you like a second skin. His latest collection, After Dark, which he showcased at the recently concluded FDCI India Men’s Weekend in Jaipur had all the elements that define his eponymous label.
Pawan Sachdeva on After Dark and men’s fashion 2026
The well-structured suits in monochromes and soft cremes flaunted embellishments and textures, including subtle fabric appliqués that elevated the outfits. Pawan matched them with equally spiffy accessories like hats, gloves, bows, ties, cummerbunds, shoes, and bejewelled socks. We spoke with the designer on the sidelines of the show about the same and more. Excerpts:
What’s After Dark all about?
It is an ode to quiet confidence and refined evening allure, conceived for formal moments that emerge after sunset. Rooted in the traditions of classic tailoring, the collection is strewn with impeccably tailored blazers, trench coats, sleek suits, refined shirts, waist-coats, and sculpted trousers. There are distinctive fusion silhouettes ranging from lungi-inspired trousers to architectural box pants, and fluid draped styles. We have used luxe fabrics such as fine wool blends, velvet, satin accents, and richly textured weaves to bring depth and tactile richness to the collection.
What was the idea behind the collection?
The collection is inspired by the transformation that happens when evening falls—when the pace slows, confidence sharpens, and personal style becomes more intentional. It reflects the moments after daylight obligations end, when dressing is no longer about formality alone but about presence, mood, and self-expression. The collection tells a story of sophistication after sunset: polished, composed, and confidently modern.
How different is it from your previous collections?
Earlier, my collections were rooted in streetwear and luxury freestyle, characterised by relaxed, oversized silhouettes, expressive styling, and a bold, trend-driven approach. They celebrated individuality, movement, and experimentation, featuring oversized looks and varied denim washes, while blending casual elements with luxury finishes to create youthful, dynamic statement pieces. In contrast, After Dark represents a deliberate shift toward refinement and structure. There’s sharp tailoring, clean lines, and rich, tactile fabrics.
What will be the general fashion trends for this year?
For 2026, men’s fashion reflects a thoughtful balance of refinement, comfort, and individuality. The year sees a continued shift toward relaxed yet precise tailoring, rich textures, and elevated natural fabrics, paired with soft, sophisticated colour palettes. Craft-led detailing and statement accessories add depth to minimalist silhouettes, allowing for subtle self-expression. The return of wide-leg trousers, vintage tailoring references, and statement outerwear signals a renewed appreciation for heritage, while function-driven design, sustainable practices, and personal style remain enduring pillars.
2026 wardrobe must-haves for men in casual wear and occasion wear?
Casual essentials include crisp shirts, premium t-shirts, relaxed blazers, wide-leg trousers, expressive denim, and utility-inspired overshirts, paired with elevated sneakers or loafers. In the occasion and formal space, tailored suits, soft-shoulder blazers, and unstructured tailoring are key. At the same time, ethnic staples like bandhgalas, textured sherwanis, and Indo-Western fusion pieces have made a strong comeback.
What are the plans for your label this year?
Our label is set for a global expansion, with a strategic focus on inter national markets. We aim to showcase our collections across fashion capitals such as New York and London, while positioning the Middle East as a key mainstream market.
What inspires your designs?
My designs are inspired by architectural details encountered during my travels, as well as the richness of traditional craftsmanship, including zardosi, dabka, cutwork, resham embroidery, and the intricate artistry of Parsi and Kashmiri embroideries. For Western wear, the design approach is guided by global trends, with a focus on staying ahead of forecasts through contemporary, updated silhouettes and styling.
What fashion statements of 2025 did you like most?
Among standout fashion statements of 2025, leather and denim emerged as particularly compelling. The resurgence of biker jackets paired with flared denims brought a strong sense of attitude and modern nostalgia, making it one of the most impactful trends of the year. In formalwear, sharp tailoring took centre stage, with double-breasted suits, structured trench coats, and pleated trousers redefining contemporary ele gance. Together, these elements reflected a confident return to statement dressing—rooted in classic silhouettes yet reimagined with a modern edge.
Your other upcoming collections?
My upcoming collection reimagines khadi with a contemporary twist, featuring modern silhouettes, innovative techniques, and intricate appliqué work. The next phase will explore khadi blended with knits and screen prints, creating a dynamic interplay between traditional craftsmanship and modern design.