Urmil’s new collection takes a leaf from the traditional Gomira dancers
Homegrown label Urmil by designers Prerna and Ritika has just launched its Assemblage collection, inspired by the ritual masks and rhythmic presence of the Gomira dancers of West Bengal. The range explores the dialogue between heritage and contemporary design through a dramatic visual vocabulary, allowing the drapes to stand apart in a fluid yet structured manner.
Urmil’s Assemblage draws from Bengal’s Gomira tradition
Crafted using silk and organza, the collection highlights thoughtful draping, pearl detailing, and textural layering. This edit reinterprets the sari with sculpted folds, cascading lines, and organic silhouettes. The colour palette — comprising ivory, red, sage green, and blush pink — is muted, underscoring the craftsmanship instead. The designer duo take us through the same.
How different is it from your previous collection?
Prerna: Assemblage marks a shift from surface-led design to a more narrative and movement driven approach. While previous collections explored layering and embellishment across varied silhouettes, this edit is distinctly sari-focused, using draping, structure, and sculptural construction to let the garment itself take centre stage. It is quieter, more refined, and rooted in cultural storytelling, with an emphasis on form, fluidity, and intention.
What’s the idea behind the edit?
Ritika: It is inspired by Gomira, an ancient masked ritual dance of North Bengal that is slowly fading. The edit translates the movement, rhythm, and layered energy of Gomira into contemporary sari drapes and intends to honour and subtly promote this indigenous art form through modern design.
What’s trending this party season?
Prerna: This season, women are embracing elevated minimalism with rich details. Think fluid silhouettes with architectural drapes, tonal monochromes, pearl and bead embellishments, and unexpected textures. Festive dressing leans into statement pieces that balance heritage and modernity — structured drapes, organza layers, and metallic or pearl accents are key. Comfort with couture detailing is the vibe.
What is the fashion forecast for women in 2026?
Ritika: It is set to celebrate balance between heritage and innovation, comfort and couture. Key ideas shaping the year include craft revival meeting modernity, sustainable luxury, and wearable art.
What are the trends for the summer of 2026?
Prerna: Fluid silhouettes and layered draping, soft but vivid colours like coral, sage, and blush tones, sheer, and organza textures with pearl or bead accents will trend. Trends that will stay include artisanal craft and embroidery, minimalist statement pieces, sustainable fabrics, and intentional design.
What are the wedding wardrobe must-haves for brides and bridesmaids?
Ritika: A classic red sari or sculptural drapes in softer tones for pre-wedding and post-wedding functions work well. Bridesmaids can opt for coordinated yet versatile saris in muted pastels or earthy hues, focusing on draping and minimal embellishment for longevity beyond the wedding.
What are the plans for your label in 2026?
Prerna: It will be about refinement and focus, deepening the design language and strengthening the collaborations with artisans. The aim is to create culturally rooted yet contemporary collections that are timeless and globally relevant.
Tell us about your upcoming collection.
Ritika: The upcoming collection leans more towards ready-to-wear (pret), designed for effortless wearability. The pieces are versatile and fluid, easy to style for a day outing, yet elevated enough to be worn or reworked for intimate weddings and festive occasions.