From heirloom embroidery to contemporary cuts: Chamee & Palak discuss their new collection
Designer label Chamee & Palak’s latest collection, Leher, is traditional, softened and set into motion. An ode to heirloom craft and jewel-toned silks, Leher captures movement. The palette is jewel-toned and warm, comprising hot pink, mustard gold, teal, a deep bottle green, champagne, and beautiful burnt orange that bleeds into coral. In terms of silhouettes, there are a variety of lehengas, both full circular and softer A-line cuts, pre-draped saris with fitted hems, and choli-skirt sets with more open, modern necklines. Halter backs, off-shoulder cuts, and structured corsets paired with skirts are also there. The fabrics are primarily satin and silk, and the weave is georgette and crepe. Embroidery ranges from dense botanical work in gold and resham to pieces where the detailing is a very restrained shimmer. The designer duo takes us through the collection.
What was the idea behind the collection?
Chamee: Honestly, it came from feeling both vibrant and free at the same time. There’s a specific mood and thought behind the craft in this collection. The patience behind it. The time it takes. We wanted to honour that without making the clothes feel like museum pieces.
What do you think is working in ethnic and fusion dressing this summer?
Palak: Women have stopped wanting to choose between occasion and comfort. What we’re seeing is a real appetite for silhouettes that feel considered but not restrictive. Pre-draped saris have had a proper moment for exactly this reason. The drama is built in, and you don’t have to be a pro to carry it. In terms of fusion, we think the most interesting space right now is where Indian craft meets a Western silhouette sensibility quietly.
What are the summer wardrobe must-haves?
Chamee: A pre-draped sari and a good corset-skirt set in a lighter fabric. A lot of people wear pastels for summer weddings and we understand th impulse, but the jewel tones carry so much more energy.
What inspires the designs at Chamee & Palak?
Palak: Emotion, mostly. Chamee designs from feeling first, be it a texture, a memory, or a colour that’s sitting in her head. It rarely starts with a trend board. It starts with a question of what this particular emotion feels like to wear. Craft is the other constant. We have deep respect for the artisans we work with, and a lot of the design comes from spending time with them. They are an integral part of the inputs which go into our new collections. The clothes are better when the craft is the starting point.