Wrii Studio
Wrii Studio’s debut ready-to-wear collection celebrates jamdani

Writuparna Kar talks about building Aawaz through handcrafted jamdani

Kolkata designer Writuparna Kar introduces her debut ready-to-wear collection, Aawaz, which etches emotions into jamdani weaves
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Designer Writuparna Kar’s label, Wrii Studio’s, latest edit, Aawaz, is deeply emotional in its construction that doesn’t scream for attention. What makes this range special is that it’s their debut ready-to-wear collection. Every outfit has been developed through handwoven jamdani techniques and detailed Kantha work. The motifs and visual elements are woven directly into the fabric during the process, making the construction far more intricate and time-consuming than printed textiles.

The silhouettes are intentionally fluid, breathable, and unrestrictive, symbolising emotional release. You’ll see relaxed co-ord sets, layered skirts, softly structured dresses, contemporary jamdani separates, draped forms, and versatile ready-to-wear pieces that move gently with the body instead of controlling it.

Writuparna Kar on preserving authentic jamdani through fashion

The colour story begins with blacks, charcoals, and smoke greys and moves into muted ivories and earthy neutrals, which represent introspection and emotional stillness. The subtle shades are accented with bursts of deep indigos, yellows, burnt oranges, reds, soft pinks, and luminous blues. Handwoven jamdani remains the soul of the collection alongside silk cottons, soft overlays, and layered surfaces that create movement and depth. The motifs are symbolic rather than decorative. Butterflies, dragonflies, fragmented forms, threads, shadows, birds, and flowers reflect emotional landscapes that are subtly woven into the textiles.

Writuparna unveils the collection with an exclusive shoot for Indulge, exploring the drama that reflects the emotions woven into the clothes. Elements like plastic wrapping, threads, fragmented shadows, dim lighting, and transitional spaces were used symbolically to represent emotional confinement, vulnerability, and transformation. At the same time, there were moments of openness in the form of light entering a space, movement toward horizons, softer expressions, and floating textures. These moments represent release and self-awareness. On the sidelines of the shoot, she takes us through Aawaz.

Writuparna Kar on preserving authentic jamdani through fashion
Writuparna Kar on preserving authentic jamdani through fashion
Q

What’s the idea behind the collection?

A

Aawaz is about listening to your inner voice in a world that constantly asks you to become someone else. The collection explores the emotional journey from silence to expression — from feeling emotionally confined to finding the courage to exist truthfully. We wanted to talk about the quiet battles people carry internally: self-doubt, pressure, uncertainty, identity, vulnerability, and transformation. But this is not a collection about sadness. It’s about unfolding. About understanding that growth is often quiet, slow, and deeply personal.

Q

Why did it take you over a year for this?

A

Because we didn’t want to create a trend-driven collection. We wanted to create something emotionally honest and technically meaningful. Handwoven jamdani itself takes immense time, precision, and patience. Many of the motifs required multiple iterations before they could be translated correctly onto fabric, while still retaining softness and wearability. We worked closely with artisans to ensure the motifs felt woven into the story rather than simply placed onto garments. But beyond technique, Aawaz also took time emotionally. Aawaz was a very inward journey for me as a creative director. I’ve always found it natural to understand and translate the emotions and stories of others through design, but this collection required me to pause and reflect much more personally.

From layered silhouettes to symbolic motifs, Aawaz by Wrii Studio brings together contemporary design and traditional jamdani craftsmanship in a deeply personal collection
From layered silhouettes to symbolic motifs, Aawaz by Wrii Studio brings together contemporary design and traditional jamdani craftsmanship in a deeply personal collection
Q

How delicate and difficult is genuine jamdani to work with when it comes to weaving designs?

A

Jamdani is incredibly delicate and labour-intensive because every motif is woven manually into the fabric, thread by thread. It is not printed or mechanically inserted. Even the smallest motif requires concentration, rhythm, and immense technical skill from the artisan. One slight inconsistency can affect the balance of the weave. When you start experimenting with contemporary motifs or unconventional placements, the complexity increases even further. What makes jamdani special is also what makes it challenging — its softness, transparency, and handmade irregularity. You cannot force the fabric, but must work with it patiently. That is why preserving authentic jamdani is so important. It is not just a textile; it is human time woven into cloth.

Q

What’s working this summer season?

A

This summer, people are moving strongly toward comfort-driven fashion, relaxed silhouettes, breathable fabrics, and easy layering. Baggy and oversized garments are especially popular right now because they offer both comfort and versatility while still feeling stylish and contemporary. Loose shirts, wide-leg pants, relaxed co-ord sets, flowy dresses, and effortless layered silhouettes are becoming key wardrobe choices. There’s also a visible shift toward natural fabrics and handcrafted textiles.

Q

What are some summer wardrobe essentials?

A

Relaxed shirts, layered dresses, co-ord sets, versatile scarves or overlays, and pieces that can be styled multiple ways.

Writuparna Kar Kolkata designer
Writuparna Kar speaks about authentic jamdani, artisan-led fashion and why slow design remains central to Wrii Studio’s philosophy
Q

What inspires your designs?

A

Human emotions inspire me the most. I’m deeply inspired by silence, conversations, memories, music, cinema, poetry, urban loneliness, nature, old textiles, and everyday emotions.

Q

Tell us about the plans for your label.

A

The long-term vision for Wrii Studio is to grow slowly, responsibly, and with purpose. A large part of that journey is deeply connected to the skilled artisan communities of West Bengal, who continue to preserve complex handwoven techniques like jamdani and hand-embroidery traditions despite many challenges. We want to grow alongside them, ensuring that their craftsmanship receives the recognition, value, and respect it truly deserves. We also want to build a more aware and knowledgeable customer base. Today, many people admire handcrafted textiles without fully understanding the amount of skill, patience, and human effort behind them. Through our work, we hope to encourage more appreciation for authentic hand-made processes and create a stronger connection between the wearer and the textile. As a label, we want to present Wrii Studio on platforms and spaces that align with our philosophy of slow, sustainable, craft-driven fashion. Growth for us is not about mass production; it is about preserving difficult textile techniques, supporting artisan livelihoods, and proudly showcasing the beauty of Indian handwoven textiles in a contemporary way.

Aawaz
Slow fashion and handcrafted textiles define Aawaz
Q

What are the hurdles or difficulties that a designer-cum-entrepreneur faces?

A

Balancing creativity and business is one of the biggest challenges. As a designer, you want time to think, experiment, and create honestly. But as an entrepreneur, you also have to manage production timelines, finances, logistics, artisan coordination, marketing, customer expectations, and constant uncertainty. Working with handmade textiles adds another layer because craft cannot be industrially rushed. Delays happen, sampling takes time, and scaling responsibly is difficult. There’s also the challenge of educating people about the value of slow fashion in a fast-consumption culture. But despite the difficulties, it feels meaningful because you’re building something with intention.

Q

Upcoming collection details?

A

It’s a positive surprise for now. We will continue to explore handcrafted textiles, thoughtful storytelling, and slow design in its own way while making a meaningful difference.

Model: Shreyasi Sanyal

Pictures: Ranjay Ray Choudhury

Hair: Prantik Dev

Makeup: Debrup Ghosh

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