A radical amalgamation of traditional heritage and modern elements, Pallavi Singhee’s 12-year-old label Verb represents the constant state of flux that the fashion world is in, but with a timeless twist to the same. The designer, who has been worn by such Bollywood celebs as Kareena Kapoor Khan, Sonam Kapoor, Raveena Tandon, Taapsee Pannu and Rakul Preet among others, is hailed for making outfits that are seasonless and can be worn years later without risking being outdated. Swish and stylish with an element of funk added to them, her designs are always about heritage, culture and diversity of styles and fabrics put across in a very bohemian and playful manner.
Her latest occasion wear range, Viaje, which means travel in Spanish, is also about all that and more with her signature bling and sequins elevating the collection to yet another level. Consisting of over 100 vivid pieces, spread across several categories, these dresses can be worn from day to night for cocktails, weddings and as resort wear options. Replete with vintage prints, and Russian embroideries, the comfortable silhouettes like dresses, separates and blazers come in dark hues of pinks, lavenders, magentas, blacks, greens and oranges made of gorgeous velvet, jacquard, tulle, faux feather shimmer, brocade and other mixes.
In this cover issue, we speak with the Kolkata-based couturier about the same, what drives her and how she has grown as a brand. We also tried out four ritzy cocktail numbers from the lookbook on the very glamorous Bollywood actress, Anindita Bose for you to emulate before the party season gets over.
Excerpts from the chat:
What’s the inspiration behind Viaje?
Viaje is inspired by travel and is about well-traveled women who have a unique and idiosyncratic sense of dressing. It’s about any woman whose clothing sense is eclectic and inspired by the various traditions and cultures she is exposed to and how she puts them all together when she wears her clothes.
We have used a lot of shimmers and shine that’s in trend now and since we are a print-based brand, the focus has always been on doing eclectic prints and mix of prints with lots of layering that makes the entire range interesting and keeps the clothes away from being boxed in. We create our own stories with our clothes, so, basically, there are no strict rules. The clothes are all super feminine with an element of punk in them.
How much do you harp on sustainability as a brand?
I personally don’t believe sustainable fashion is in sustainable fabrics alone since very often these fabrics come with a lot of constraints in terms of price and techniques and it’s not always possible to make everything sustainable. So, wherever we can, we use sustainable fabrics and we try to make it a zero-waste industry by reducing our wastage. When we are working we try to reuse our waste and distribute a lot of our leftover fabrics to a lot of smaller vendors in villages.
Also, going season-less and buying lesser clothes is what we always vote for because I don’t believe we need all the clothes we hoard and we try to make our clothes classic in a way that it doesn’t go out of fashion at all and you would feel very trendy wearing it even years down the line. There’re a lot of elements inspired by travel and history and a lot of legacy goes into making our clothes that are more heirloom pieces rather than a one-time wear thing. The kind of fashion language we create promotes individuality and we always tell women to be themselves and be easy in what they are wearing and that they should repeat clothes. One can add layers to their outfits to not end up looking monotonous.
Your fashion philosophy?
My clothing line reflects my point of view and is an extension of how I am as a person. So, what we try to do is not follow the rulebook and not try to be conforming. The designs are feminine and at the same time have a punkish self-expression that is a bit bohemian and free-spirited. Hence there is room for a bit of playfulness which kind of makes it very easy for us to add all those bling and sequins and turns the dresses into something very happy and experimental without looking boring and boxy. I think it’s the way we approach making clothes that makes them look the way they do.
Tell us how you have grown in all these years?
I am learning every single day. When I started out I was making something but there has always been an intrinsic element that is distinctive enough for you to be able to make out that they are made by Verb. But Verb has changed so much over the years because we ourselves are growing with the brand. Initially, we only wanted to make clothes but now, I think I have reached a point in life where I want to make something that makes a social difference, so, I am trying to think of how I am contributing meaningfully. My fashion journey so far has been very fulfilling and in a lot of ways very educative and now I am in a phase where I want to give back and I am figuring out how we can do it in a way that matters.
Designwise, how has been the journey?
A stand-up comedian is truly successful when the audience can relate to his jokes and to what he has to say. For designs, too, it’s the same – it’s all about being able to relate.
We really learn from what’s happening around us and engage in understanding the environment and building something relatable that requires a lot of observation and constant learning.
There are times when you also make ghastly horrible things but all of this put together is a part of learning. We always try to make observations and bring focus to the beauty that’s lying there but nobody is noticing and put it together to make something that people would love to wear.
Do you fear or love failures?
I love failures and I have failed miserably on many occasions and I always believe that failure teaches us in a way that success can’t. So, it’s important for all of us to go through enough hardships in our lives and go through many setbacks before we rise and work again. We should take criticisms in our stride but should also be careful not to take all of them seriously enough to rob us of our confidence.
Spring-summer trends this year?
In terms of colours, there will be very nice, fresh, and bold colours like fuschias, corals, and greens, and the really low-rise jeans and bell bottoms are back with a revenge. The Y2K fashion is back but in a more fashion-forward manner. You will also see a lot of layering and beautiful puffed-up sleeves and sequins.
How much has women’s fashion evolved?
Finally, we have reached a stage where we don’t want to emulate. Previously fashion trends used to dominate us with no room for the intellectual or alternate kind of women, but now, they are being given that much more focus and there’s room for the ‘fashion misfits’, somebody who’s different. Fashion is becoming more individualistic and very intellectual with a lot of self-expression.
Fashion faux pas one should avoid?
Trying to look like each other and wearing clothes that are in trend despite being uncomfortable in them.
As a designer, what inspires you?
Life and everything about it inspire me.
Your upcoming collection?
Our summer collection is already out and we are working on our AW’23 collection which has a lot of parts in it including colours and prints and like all our edits, it has embroidery inspired by vintage and history.
CREDITS: Pictures: Debarshi Sarkar / Hair and Makeup: Abhijit Paul, assisted by Sananda Mondal Laha / Styling: Poulami Gupta / Jewellery: Style Addict / Location and food courtesy: Milee Droog