City label Ummaira started by Debaroopa Bhattacharya last year in September has already carved a niche for itself for the gorgeous designs that retain all the elements of heritage despite exuding a very young vibe. Meaning a long life in Persian, the homegrown ethnic festive wear brand has come up with an eclectic array of occasion wear that is rich in weaves and elegant in their silhouettes.
They have a lot of options in this new collection ranging from saris to lehengas, to ornate skirts, statement kurtis and ethnic gowns in traditional weaves like Kanchipuram, Banarasi, Baluchari, Maheshwari, Swarnachari, Kantha and Ajrakh among others. Each outfit looks regal with bespoke embroidery and block patterns of gara, zardosi, sheesha, batik, ari, cut dana, cutwork, appliqué and dabka.
“There is a special emphasis on silk as it’s a winter-friendly fabric. The colour palette too is bright ranging from the traditional reds, oranges and pinks to the more understated shades of ivories and matte gold besides the pastels and ombres,” tells Debaroopa. We also loved the breezy yet ornate cocktail saris with bespoke blouses which are perfect for casual gatherings.
Debaroopa feels that red as a colour is back with a bang and the boho-chic, flower-power themes are popular once again for blouses, ethnic tops, lehengas, shararas, playful skirts and cholis. “A balance between traditional and minimalistic designs is emerging with a lot of experimental innovations making their way into festive and party accessories. The traditional Kamar bandh is tweaked as a designer belt for saris and lehengas and the anklet is worn as a singlet and is popular among young girls alongside different kinds of bracelets, cuffs and bejewelled hair accessories," tells Debaroopa.
Debiroopa also feels that the exquisite silks of eastern India have always been victims of apathy and neglect in comparison to their Southern counterparts and she wants to get them their rightful place in the world of fashion through her initiative, Silks of the East, that attempts to revisit, revive and reveal the rich tales of silk-weaving culture in this part of the country.
“Eastern India is home to several varieties of silk including mulberry, muga, paat, eri, tussar, ghicha, baluchari and jamdani that display the art of intricately handcrafted embroidery techniques like Moirang Phee of Manipur or hand painting techniques such as the Madhubani saris from Bihar or Patachitra heritage from Odisha. The silks of the east are on a par with those from the south and west in terms of beauty, versatility, comfort and endurance.
In The Silks of the East initiative, Bhattacharya will showcase a few exclusive weaves including Mekhla Chadar in Paat and Tussar, Paat Sari, Bishnupur Katan, Tussar Benarasi, Katha on Tassar, Ikkat from Odisha, Madhubani from Maithili and Moirang Phee from Manipur besides other heritage offerings.
Since winters are all about celebrations, she feels a little bit of experiment in sartorial choices will not hurt and one can go bold in terms of cuts and colours. Balance your festive wardrobe with the right blend of traditional and contemporary outfits and be particular about detailing your look from head to toe. Work around the less is more principle and don't wear all your heavy jewellery and gorgeous outfits on the same day for a single occasion. Focus on the neckpiece on one occasion and keep the dangler jhumkas or chandelier cocktail earrings for another occasion. Play around with hairstyles, accessories and makeup as well,” advises the designer.
Here are a few looks from Ummaira's latest collection exclusively shot for Indulge with actor Tnusree playing the muse.
Price on request. At their store in Lake Terrace and on www.ummaira.com
CREDITS:
Model: Tnusree Chakraborty / Photographer: Samrat Das / Stylist: Olivia Sinha Roy / Hair and makeup: Bithika Benia / Location courtesy: Fairfield by Marriott