If anything has taken a backseat in the wedding fashion scene this year, it has to be minimalism. Be it the ornate veils, extravagant lehengas, elaborate gowns, interesting capes or intricately woven saris in jewel tones or neutral shades, the exquisite handwork showcasing rich craftsmanship all spell maximalism. With young brides not shying away from sartorial experiments, couturiers are playing with edgy silhouettes, blending them with timeless aesthetics. And if there’s anyone who is always bringing in a fresh perspective to the staid wedding couture story, it has to Tarun Tahiliani. With the winter-wedding festive season in full swing, we got hold of the celebrated couturier to decode the raging bridal trends for us as he takes us through his latest bridal and couture collection aptly named For Eternity. We also tried to capture the wedding vibes right with four looks curated from Tarun’s creations worn by none other than the smouldering and talented actress Paoli Dam. We hope you love the looks as much as we enjoyed putting them together. An excerpt from the chat with Tarun.
Tell us all about your AW bridal edit.
Our AW bridal and couture collection, For Eternity, pays homage to the timeless opulence of traditional craftsmanship and art. We drew inspiration from the exquisite art and architecture of India and the Middle East and explored a myriad of embroideries from Chikankari to Kasheedakari, and forms like Byzantine art, Egyptian jaalis, and Persian motifs. Featuring sculptured fits, innovative drapes, and long embroidered veils, the collection includes saris, concept saris, lehengas, shararas, gilets, jackets and gowns for women and sherwanis, bundis and suits for men, in hues ranging from patina of earth and sand to pale reds.
What's the idea behind the collection?
The idea behind every collection is to preserve, innovate with and highlight the rich craftsmanship of our country by contemporising it. We often travel and are inspired by the art and culture of cities and places around our country and the world, that have a rich heritage. We work toward synthesizing these design elements with the technique of our traditional craftsmen and our signature artistry to bring to the fore stories and collections that are India Modern.
In this collection, you see that through the merging of hand-painted and embroidered Mughal and Egyptian jaali motifs with Mumbai’s Art Deco trellises on unique silhouettes and innovative draped forms.
What are the winter bridal fashion trends this year?
I have never believed in trends, sure, certain weather or geographies dictate the choices we make about fabrics, silhouettes and styles, however, it eventually is all about how you feel when you adorn your ensemble. If it feels like an extension of you and makes you feel celebrated then that is the right choice irrespective of any established trends.
Tell us about lighter versions of destination bridalwear.
Making bridalwear and couture lightweight has been a core purpose that has driven the design house since its inception. We work with traditional techniques but find an innovative way to make them relevant to what works for the wearer today. Embroideries, artwork, fabrics, and structuring are moulded differently for different categories of products to work as per the occasion's demands. In the bridal category, you may find zardozi work done around a hand-painted panel of a lehenga, however, in the fashion category, the same motifs may be digitally printed on a draped skirt and accentuated with crystals.
How much have the fashion choices of millennial brides changed?
Brides today more than anything want to be natural, fun, look like themselves and be able to dance at their weddings. If you don't tick out these boxes you failed. I think it's very dated to want to look like something out of some Hindi film or Jodha Akbar. Today's women are much more confident and self-assured. They are looking less to be in costume, and more in something fabulous that’s an extension of their personality to celebrate their love and their families on one of their most important days.
You also launched your Tasva collection at LFW in the most fun glam way Tell us a little about that.
Men have finally come full circle and are embracing dressing and looking great and are now much more comfortable in their Indianness, so I believe it presents an opportunity because men really like good tailoring and are particular about fit. They are, however, a bit intimidated by Indian clothing because it has been projected as costume for too long now. Hence, there was a need in the market for simple, chic, elegant, beautifully tailored and tasteful menswear, which is what Tasva is all about, right from the simple Kurtas to Indo-western wear like bundi sets and dhoti sets, to wedding wear.
A store launch also took place in Patna. Where else are you planning for stores?
Currently, we have 65 stores across the country. Our goal is to reach around 90 stores by the end of this fiscal. In particular, we're excited about our upcoming store launches in Kolkata and Guwahati, which are two pivotal locations in the eastern region.
Wardrobe essentials for brides and grooms?
Lightweight clothing that you can move around in and timeless and versatile styles that can be worn multiple times over the years either paired together or individually. I believe deeply in the concept of ‘Love, Re-love’ concerning fashion.
What will your SS’24 collection be all about?
My inspiration flows from the amalgamation of diverse cultures and artistic expressions. As for the next collection, we're currently weaving a narrative that revolves around intricate handwork and celebrates our rich heritage married with contemporary sensibilities.
Price on request. On taruntahiliani . com
Owning your own style!
On the sidelines of the shoot, we chat with actress Paoli Dam to get an idea of her subtle fashion choices.
How has the year 2023 been workwise?
It has been a reasonably good and interesting year for me. Right before the Pujas, Palan released. It’s a special project for me not only because it’s my first film with Kaushik Ganguly, but also because it’s a very sensitive and relevant film and to be a part of such a project makes me feel good. After the Puja’s Kamaleswar Mukherjee’s Ektu Shorey Boshun. It is in the comedy genre which again is something I haven’t explored much. So, it was very exciting and new for me. Also, I acted in Vishal Bhardwaj’s debut web series, Charlie Chopra and the Mystery of Solang Valley. Hence 2023 has indeed been an enriching year for me.
What’s fashion for you?
For me, fashion and style are terms associated with comfort. I love natural and handwoven fabrics be it linen or cotton. I love white, red, black and, any colours, be it emerald green, beige, gold or pastel and earthy shades. When it comes to occasion wear, nothing beats my love for saris. I love wearing them a lot be it silk, cotton, chiffon, and weaves from across the states.
Your favourite accessories?
I am a minimalist when it comes to accessories since I want the sari that I am wearing to be under the spotlight. To complement the look, I might wear a statement piece like a pair of long earrings, or, an elegant choker or a cocktail ring. Sometimes, I give them all a go and wear only a watch. I like keeping it subtle and elegant.
Five wardrobe essentials?
A white shirt, a black shirt, denim, saris and a clutch.
Who’s your fashion icon and why?
I believe that one should own their own fashion. Every individual has a unique personality and sense of style. You should always be your own fashion icon. Having said that, since I feel saris work best for me, I love what Rekha wears. The kind of saris she wears are amazing and she has one of the loveliest collections of Kanjivarams.
Your upcoming films?
I have Pritha Chakraborty’s Pahargunj Halt, and the rest are yet to be announced.
CREDITS: PICS: Debarshi Sarkar / Hair and makeup: Aniruddha Chakladar / Styling: Poulami Gupta / Jewellery: Sawansukha / Location courtesy: The Astor Kolkata