The recently concluded Milan Fashion Week 2023 depicted a coming together of comfort, glamour and sportiness with leading labels on the ramp. From Fendi’s functional tailoring seen in long coats and loose pants, NO21’s ode to femme fatale in sultry formal wear to Tod’s long-term investing pieces like peacoats, bombers and anoraks - most of the collections veered to the utilitarian side.
There was a touch of high-end party glamour as seen in Tomo Koizumi’s multicoloured reimagining of the shades of Kimono into voluminous dresses and MSGM’s club kid glamour with sequin ensembles, most of the labels’ collections imitated easy-to-wear and outdoorsy look.
In line with that, Japanese fashion brand Onitsuka Tiger showcased a suave edit that merged fashion with sports and heritage with innovation. The label that last debuted at MFW in 2021, this time brought a theme called 'Urban Layering' crafted under the creative director Andrea Pompilio.
As the name suggests, the edit had models dressed in many layers which showcased the multilayered sartorial sensibilities of Japanese culture. The idea for the collection was borrowed from a traditional ensemble, the kimono, which is worn by superimposing garments of different weights and sizes enclosed by a wide belt. Andrea blended this Japanese tradition with Onitsuka Tiger's sporty DNA that brought an athletic collection suitable to the urban aesthetic.
Expect ensembles like oversized coats made of needle-punched crafted faux fur, tailored coats made of cosy melton with a translucent effect with padding detail on the back and adorned with large knitted martingales.
One can also spot crisp meltons used for oversized three-button jackets and coats. However, the highlight of the show was the mega anoraks with their eye-catching volume. Just like the multi-layered tops, the bottoms were equally stacked with à la mode baggy trousers made of nylon and melton and quilted chiffon shorts layered over boxer shorts.
While the ensembles play more on understated metropolitan style, what makes them ultra-citified is the attention to detail--tight silhouette tank tops, sash belts, drawstrings, giant turtlenecks made of mohair. The collection was presented in a minimal colour palette that veers from black to shades of grey, beige and a blast of pumpkin orange. If that wasn't enough of urban dressing, the label put forth a debonair showcase of ankle and below-the-knee leather boots, elegant but light, and the trainers that evolve into outdoor-style shoes hybridized by partially hollowed soles.
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