Chennai 17th anniversary special: Couture with a conscience

These design houses are making fashion a greener place through timeless pieces that reflect a blend of culture, innovation, modernity, and sustainability
Chennai 17th anniversary special: Couture with a conscience
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16 min read

In a world where “fast” is the name of the game, sustainability is strutting down the runway in a fabulous new ensemble. As the fashion industry grapples with its environmental footprint—thanks to an overabundance of cheap materials and questionable labour practices — a few designers are flipping the script and sewing a brighter, greener future.

With 32 fashion powerhouses, from the likes of Chanel and Prada to H&M and Zara, signing the Fashion Pact, it’s clear that a stitch in time saves our planet. These brands are weaving sustainability into the very fabric of their creations, proving that style can coexist with Mother Nature.

In this feature, we dive into the world of trailblazing designers who are redefining what it means to be chic and eco-friendly. Get ready to be inspired by their creative spins on sustainability, where every piece tells a story and every choice counts. So, grab your kale smoothies and eco-friendly tote bags — it’s time to meet the fashion revolutionaries who are riding the waves of change.

Reviving crafts and weaves

Sanjay Garg’s philosophy centers on the intricate relationship between design and sustainability

In an era where the fashion industry grapples with its environmental footprint, Sanjay Garg, founder of Raw Mango, stands out as a visionary committed to sustainability. His approach transcends mere fabric choices, embracing a holistic perspective that values heritage, community, and ethical practices. “Sustainability is something that needs to be applied in all aspects of our lives,” he asserts, emphasising that it extends beyond clothing or design processes. For Sanjay, re-evaluating our consumption patterns is essential, as sustainability is context-dependent and intertwined with local economies and livelihoods.

Raw Mango’s 
festive collection, Garland
Raw Mango’s festive collection, Garland
 Raw Mango’s 
festive collection, Garland
Raw Mango’s festive collection, Garland
Raw Mango’s 
festive collection, Garland
Raw Mango’s festive collection, Garland
Raw Mango’s 
festive collection, Garland
Raw Mango’s festive collection, Garland

Sanjay’s philosophy centers on the intricate relationship between design and sustainability. “When you think of a sari, its sustainability is not limited to a yarn choice,” he explains. “This is only the beginning. It’s achieved through a combination of many factors, including design, weave, motif, and colour choice.” This multifaceted approach not only honours traditional crafts but also sustains local economies and supports the livelihoods of artisans. For Sanjay, sustainability is not a destination but “an ongoing process in our journey.”

Sanjay Garg
Sanjay GargAmlanjyoti Bora

When it comes to materials, he prioritises natural fibers, particularly handwoven textiles like silk, wool, and cotton. These choices reflect a deep respect for his heritage and the artisans who produce them. “We work closely with indigenous craftspeople in a symbiotic relationship, supporting their craft while ensuring ethical wages,” he notes. This commitment not only uplifts communities but also ensures the quality inherent in traditions passed down through generations. “Local and sustainable commodities contribute to a nation’s identity, and by upholding these principles, we strengthen the craft traditions that define us,” he adds.

For Sanjay, educating consumers about sustainability starts with broadening the definition of what it means. “It’s essential to identify what is needed and then ask what can be designed for that,” he emphasises. He cites his own experience with Mashru ikat, a textile that required revitalisation. “Now we are trying to find our own vocabulary within Mashru ikat,” he reflects, highlighting the importance of adapting traditional crafts to meet contemporary needs.

He also advocates for a mindset shift. “People need to accept having less. If one needs to add, it should be pieces that will last a lifetime.” By empowering consumers to understand the broader impact of their choices, he believes they can make informed decisions that honour both tradition and the environment. “The question of sustainability is not divorced from innovation,” he notes, challenging designers to reflect on how they can meet new needs responsibly.

Transitioning to more sustainable practices is not without its challenges. Sanjay points out that a major concern is whether large-scale production can ever be truly sustainable. “Cookie-cutter solutions don’t work across the board. We need a more nuanced approach that balances our environment, resources, and community needs,” he insists.

Transforming waste into fashion

Kriti Tula’s journey is fuelled by her experiences with wastefulness in the fashion industry

In the realm of sustainable luxury, few voices resonate as powerfully as that of Kriti Tula, creative director and co-owner of Doodlage. With a background from the London School of Fashion and a lifelong commitment to eco-conscious living, Kriti blends her passion for design with a profound respect for the environment. “I’m glad I found my way into fashion,” she reflects, acknowledging that her path was shaped by a lack of awareness about the field’s potential impact. Today, she stands among the leaders recognised by a leading magazine for advancing the United Nations’ Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs).

Kriti’s journey is fuelled by her experiences with wastefulness in the fashion industry. As an environmentalist, she is acutely aware of the vast amounts of natural resources squandered in clothing production. “The damage to the environment in creating more clothes is staggering,” she says, reinforcing her commitment to sustainable fashion.

Kriti’s dedication to sustainability stems from her upbringing. “Growing up, I witnessed the value of reusing and upcycling fabric,” she explains. Her mother’s resourcefulness left a lasting impression, fostering Kriti’s belief that fashion should never come at the expense of the planet. At Doodlage, this philosophy translates into a decade-long commitment to creating desirable clothing from factory waste. “We’ve recently expanded to include garments made from organic and recycled materials, all handwoven by fairly paid artisans across India,” she reveals. The brand encourages consumers to send products back for alterations or responsible disposal, extending the life cycle of each piece.

Kriti Tula
Kriti Tula

Kriti emphasises the importance of material selection in achieving sustainability. “We choose post-production waste from factories — defective or deadstock fabric — which we clean and upcycle into limited edition products,” she explains. By standardising the upcycling process through techniques like patching and embroidery, Doodlage not only creates unique pieces but also involves artisans as key stakeholders in their mission. “We blend post-consumer waste with biodegradable organic or low-impact materials for added strength and quality,” she adds, showcasing her commitment to both sustainability and craftsmanship.

Kriti believes that educating consumers is essential for fostering sustainable practices within the fashion industry. “We need to integrate the impact of fashion into the education system, bringing younger generations closer to traditional garment processes and innovations,” she argues. She advocates for leveraging social media and influencers to raise awareness and emphasises the need for transparency in supply chains. “Encouraging community engagement around repairing, upcycling, and textile waste management is vital,” she asserts.

Transitioning to sustainable methods hasn’t been without its hurdles. Kriti describes the challenge of building a brand centered on alternatives to fast fashion. “Our vision is to do more and do better,” she states, emphasising the importance of scaling sustainable alternatives as they grow.

Looking ahead, Kriti is optimistic about the innovations emerging in the field. “There’s so much happening in material science and bio-colouring alternatives to chemical washes,” she notes. However, she insists that these advancements need to be adopted more rapidly. “Investing in garment collection and management systems while considering end-of-life at the design stage is crucial,” she explains. She also highlights the potential of artificial intelligence to transform the industry’s operations, paving the way for more sustainable practices.

By marrying creativity with responsibility, Kriti not only redefines fashion but also inspires a movement toward a more conscious and eco-friendly industry.

Weaving green dreams

Mandeep Nagi’s journey embodies the idea that our roots can shape lifelong passions

Mandeep Nagi, a Sikhni from Kutch, carries a rich legacy of textiles passed down from her mother. From cherished heirloom Phulkari pieces to the gharchola she donned on her wedding day, Mandeep’s journey embodies the idea that our roots can shape lifelong passions. “With the aim to create pieces that can be worn for a long time, we ensure a variety of eco-friendly and sustainable practices,” she emphasises, showcasing her commitment to sustainable luxury at Shades of India.

Mandeep and her team focus on crafting garments that stand the test of time. “What we do is not just fashion; we make clothes that last a very long time,” she explains. The design philosophy is rooted in quality, with an emphasis on natural fabrics. “All the fabrics we use are natural. In fact, some are handwoven or power loomed, and all are produced with hand-operated machines,” she notes. By avoiding heavy machinery that consumes excessive energy, Shades of India champions a more sustainable approach to production. “Our garments are made to last, as we use the right quality of raw material and processes, promoting ethical consumption,” she adds.

With over 30 years in the industry, Mandeep’s vision for the brand has always centered around utilising India’s rich tapestry of materials and craftsmanship. “From the very beginning, our goal was to create the best out of our country’s treasured crafts and fabrics,” she explains. Mandeep’s commitment to quality is evident, with robust quality control measures ensuring that every garment meets high standards.

Mandeep Nagi
Mandeep Nagi

She believes that the fashion industry has made significant strides in educating consumers about sustainability. “As a brand, we are committed to communicating and educating our customers on the different crafts, fabrics, and materials we use,” she states. By highlighting the stories behind Indian fabrics, her brand seeks to foster a deeper understanding of sustainable and ethical consumption.

Transitioning to more sustainable methods has not been without challenges. Mandeep acknowledges the complexities involved but remains steadfast in her mission. “We create collections using the leftover fabrics from other garments, turning them into beautiful clothing and home furnishings,” she explains. Looking ahead, Mandeep is optimistic about the role of sustainable brands in reshaping consumer behaviour. “I hope that, through effective communication, people will reduce their demand for fast fashion,” she reflects.

From farm to high fashion

Vijayalakshmi Nachiar believes the fashion industry must do more to help consumers understand the impact of their choices

In the heart of Tamil Nadu, Ethicus stands out as India’s first ‘Farm to Fashion’ organic and sustainable brand. Founded by the husband-and-wife duo Mani Chinnaswamy and Vijayalakshmi Nachiar, Ethicus merges traditional craftsmanship with eco-conscious practices, creating a new paradigm in sustainable luxury.

With their own organic cotton branded as ‘Eco-Logic Cotton,’ Ethicus ensures the highest quality of long and extra-long staple cotton used across their products. Their commitment extends beyond the material to encompass a Handloom Design Studio in Pollachi, where they collaborate with local weavers and artisans from across India to produce textiles that resonate with cultural heritage.

Vijayalakshmi, the creative director of Ethicus, explains the philosophy that drives their designs. “Several factors inspired us to prioritise sustainability in our designs. Primarily, the sari is our main product. We believe that a handmade organic sari is the most sustainable of all garments.” She highlights the versatility of the sari, noting, “Once it is woven, it is a complete product. It suits all age groups and body types, with a long shelf life.”

Ethicus focuses on preserving traditional weaving techniques, recognising the cultural significance of the sari in Indian heritage. “We are motivated by a desire to reduce environmental impact, believing that fashion can be both beautiful and sustainable,” Vijayalakshmi states.

At Ethicus, the materials selected for each collection reflect a commitment to sustainability and quality. “We only use organic certified fine cotton yarns in our sarees,” Vijayalakshmi reveals. “Our meticulous craftsmanship ensures high-quality products that stand the test of time.” Ethicus emphasises transparency, allowing consumers to trace the origin of materials and the artisans behind each creation. “This builds trust and highlights our commitment to ethical practices,” she adds.

ETHICUS - Mumbai Meri Jaan Collection - Gateway of India Inspired Sari
ETHICUS - Mumbai Meri Jaan Collection - Gateway of India Inspired Sari
ETHICUS - Handwoven Organic cotton sari
ETHICUS - Handwoven Organic cotton sari
Picasa

The challenge of educating consumers about sustainable practices is one that Ethicus embraces wholeheartedly. “We feel it is crucial to communicate our brand ethos,”she asserts. “Product tags inform customers about the source of our raw materials, the artisan who made it, and the story behind it.”

Vijayalakshmi Nachiar
Vijayalakshmi Nachiar

Vijayalakshmi believes the fashion industry must do more to help consumers understand the impact of their choices. “Effective storytelling through various channels — road shows, workshops, blogs, and social media — can establish a meaningful connection between the customer and the product,” she suggests.

Transitioning to sustainable practices has not been without its challenges. “We hail from a traditional cotton ginning family, and our operations are three generations old,” Vijayalakshmi explains. “In pursuing our sustainable fashion brand, we had to engage in activities like spinning, dyeing, and handloom weaving, all of which were new to us.”

Changing consumer perceptions about cotton quality and the intricacies of handloom production posed significant hurdles. “Initially, it was difficult to convey that different varieties of cotton result in different product types,” she recalls. However, through persistent customer engagement and feedback, Ethicus has adapted its designs to meet market demands, earning recognition and trust.

Looking ahead, Vijayalakshmi sees exciting innovations shaping the future of sustainable fashion. “In India, sustainable textile fashion largely means garments made from organic cotton, but global trends are influencing our approach,” she notes.

She highlights the rise of circular fashion, where products are designed for reuse and recycling, and advances in sustainable dyeing techniques that use fewer resources. “Collaborative consumption models, such as rental options, may also change how consumers approach fashion. Additionally, local production and inclusive growth will play crucial roles in supporting sustainable practices across diverse communities,” she suggests.

Turning trash into textile treasure

Kamala Murali’s work elevates pre-consumer discarded and surplus materials into one-of-a-kind treasures for contemporary living

In the vibrant city of Chennai, Kambli — a design studio founded by textile designer Kamala Murali — embraces the art of sustainability. Drawing inspiration from traditional practices of repair and reuse, as well as textile-making methods from India and other Eastern cultures, Kambli crafts unique, luxurious pieces that embody both heritage and innovation. From Japanese boro cloth to India’s Siddhi patchwork quilts, Kamala’s work elevates pre-consumer discarded and surplus materials into one-of-a-kind treasures for contemporary living.

Kamala’s journey toward sustainable design began during her formative years as a design student. “I was on a sourcing visit to a second-hand cloth market in Bengaluru in 2010. There, I saw cardboard boxes filled with surplus and ‘waste’ material scraps lying around unused. This inspired me to work primarily with surplus fabrics in my projects,” she recalls. For her graduation project in 2011, Kamala focused on exploring hand-based textile techniques to upcycle these discarded materials. “I liked the challenge of only using what is available at hand. This is where my journey began.”

At Kambli, the choice of materials reflects a deep commitment to sustainability. “I work primarily with industry and pre-consumer textile scraps sourced from export houses, retail shops, and other places,” Kamala explains. “We receive all types of fabrics and sort them based on my design sensibilities as well as project requirements.” This meticulous curation allows Kambli to create luxurious textiles that tell a story while minimising waste.

Kamala Murali
Kamala Murali

Kamala believes in the power of transparency when it comes to educating consumers about sustainability. “It’s crucial to inform consumers in a detailed manner about the types of sustainability a brand embodies — whether social, economic, or environmental,” she asserts. This approach not only guides consumers to choose brands that align with their values but also deepens their understanding of what sustainability truly means. “It helps them take concrete steps towards ethical consumption in fashion,” she adds.

Transitioning to a primarily sustainable practice presented its own set of challenges for Kamala. “Deciding to utilise scrap and remnant fabrics made mass manufacturing difficult, even on a small scale,” she admits. Each quilt designed by Kambli is a unique art piece, which poses the challenge of reshaping perceptions around textile art and the potential of ‘waste’ fabrics. “I think the challenge was to present new ways of thinking about textile art,” she reflects.

Kambli not only redefines luxury by using discarded materials but also champions a narrative that celebrates sustainability. With every piece, Kamala invites us to reconsider the potential of what we once deemed waste and to embrace a more conscious approach to fashion.

Stitching up the future

This brand is dedicated to reducing its environmental footprint by using natural materials like handloom cotton and khadi that honour traditional craftsmanship

In an age where the fashion industry faces increasing scrutiny for its environmental impact, Banjara Kasuti emerges as a beacon of hope. Founded with a mission to preserve the rich cultural heritage and hand-embroidery techniques of the Lambani women, this innovative brand seamlessly intertwines tradition with contemporary style. For over seven years, Banjara Kasuti has championed sustainability by empowering artisans, encouraging skill development, and promoting eco-friendly practices in fashion.

Asha Patil, co-founder of Banjara Kasuti, is deeply rooted in the vibrant traditions of her hometown, Vijayapura. “Our inspiration comes from the beauty of traditional Lambani embroidery and the artistry of our local artisans,” she shares. Growing up surrounded by this rich heritage, Asha realised the urgent need for sustainable practices in fashion. “Textiles and garment manufacturing contribute approximately 10 per cent of global greenhouse gas emissions. Our commitment is fuelled by the pressing reality of waste in the industry.”

Banjara Kasuti is dedicated to reducing its environmental footprint by using natural materials such as handloom cotton and khadi, which not only honour traditional craftsmanship but also promote eco-friendly practices. “Sustainability for us, is about creating timeless designs that are versatile and environmentally conscious,” Asha explains.

The choice of materials is at the heart of the brand’s philosophy. Asha emphasises the importance of handloom cotton and khadi, stating, “These materials align with our values of sustainability and cultural preservation.” Khadi, a handmade fabric, requires significantly less energy to produce than conventional fabrics, resulting in a lower carbon footprint. For instance, producing one meter of khadi consumes about 50 per cent less energy than its industrial counterparts.

To maintain high standards, Banjara Kasuti also incorporates silk and linen into their collections, ensuring elegance without sacrificing sustainability. “Linen requires up to 70 per cent less water than cotton during cultivation,” Asha notes, highlighting the environmental benefits of their material choices. “By carefully selecting natural materials, we ensure that every piece is high-quality while supporting both the environment and the artisans.”

Seema Kishore (L) and Asha Patil
Seema Kishore (L) and Asha Patil

Asha believes that the fashion industry has a responsibility to educate consumers about the importance of sustainable practices. “One way to do this is by showcasing the stories behind the craftsmanship — highlighting the artisans and traditional techniques used to create each piece.” By connecting consumers to the heritage of their garments, the brand fosters a deeper appreciation for sustainable fashion.

Asha cites brands like Everlane and Charkha as examples of transparency in the supply chain, emphasising the importance of storytelling in building consumer trust. “Informed customers can make choices that positively impact people and the environment,” she asserts.

Transitioning to sustainable practices is not without its hurdles. Asha reveals that sourcing natural fabrics that align with their design vision poses significant challenges. “Natural fabrics can vary in texture and thickness, making it difficult to achieve the desired look. Finding azo-free dyed materials is crucial for us to stay true to both quality and sustainability,” she explains.

Collaborating closely with artisans has helped them adapt and refine their sourcing methods. “It’s a learning process, but we’re committed to overcoming these challenges together,” Asha shares.

Banjara Kasuti also embraces a narrative-driven approach, where each garment tells a story of culture, craftsmanship, and sustainability. Asha notes, “As we empower women artisans, we’re also contributing to a larger movement toward ethical consumption. Brands like Suta are leading the way in promoting transparency in the supply chain, emphasising the importance of supporting local artisans.”

Banjara Kasuti stands at the intersection of fashion and sustainability, proving that luxury can be both beautiful and responsible. As Asha eloquently puts it, “Sustainable fashion is not just about what you wear; it’s about the stories you carry with you.” With each exquisite piece, the brand invites consumers to embrace a deeper connection with their clothing, transforming the industry one stitch at a time.

Timeless narratives

Rema Kumar prioritises classic beauty over fleeting trends, and has emerged as a key player in the evolving landscape of fashion

In the heart of Delhi, textile designer and couturier Rema Kumar has established herself as a beacon of sustainable luxury. More than two decades since her emergence on the fashion scene, her namesake brand has become synonymous with exquisite hand-woven saris that echo a deep commitment to sustainability. Rema’s journey, rooted in a philosophy that prioritises timeless beauty over fleeting trends, has positioned her as a key player in the evolving landscape of eco-conscious fashion.

Reflecting on her two-and-a-half-decade journey, Rema shares, “When I began my textile journey, ‘sustainable fashion’ was not as widely recognised as it is today. However, it has always been an intrinsic part of my practice.” Her dedication to natural materials is evident in her collections, which feature organic cotton, silk, linen, and wool, all lovingly handwoven and dyed with natural pigments. “I made a conscious choice to work with natural yarns and emphasise handmade craftsmanship at their core,” she explains, blending artistry with environmental consciousness.

Rema’s commitment to sustainability extends beyond materials; she is equally passionate about educating consumers on ethical consumption. “Encouraging the idea of repeating outfits — by mixing and matching with different accessories — empowers individuals to express their unique identities while embracing sustainability,” she emphasises. This philosophy invites a fresh perspective on fashion, where cherished items are upcycled and given new life, fostering creativity and resourcefulness.

Rema Kumar
Rema Kumar

The path to sustainable practices is not without its challenges. Rema has faced the significant task of educating her karigars, the skilled artisans who craft her designs. “We began by collecting all fabric scraps after stitching, repurposing them creatively for surface detailing,” she recalls. This commitment to zero waste also led to the innovative upcycling of unsold stock into new collections, breathing life into pieces that might otherwise go unnoticed.

Rema’s forward-thinking approach extends to her #CreateNewNarratives initiative, where she transforms saris sent from around the globe — many bearing sentimental value — into unique creations. “These pieces often carry stories, having belonged to mothers, aunts, or loved ones. By employing techniques like hand-block printing and embroidery, I honour their history while contributing to a more sustainable future in fashion,” she explains.

Looking ahead, Rema is optimistic about the future of sustainable fashion. “Consumers, particularly the younger generation, are increasingly conscious of the planet,” she notes. This awareness is propelling trends like the popularity of preloved garments, a movement gaining momentum post-pandemic. “Through mindful buying, we can inspire individuals to cherish their clothing and make thoughtful choices that reflect their values,” Rema asserts, advocating for a shift towards appreciating the artistry behind each piece.

In a world where fast fashion often overshadows the narrative of responsible consumption, Rema’s designs not only embody luxury but also tell a story of sustainability and resilience. By weaving together tradition, innovation, and environmental stewardship, she invites us all to participate in a movement that nurtures both our planet and our souls — transforming not just the fashion industry, but also the way we connect with the world around us.

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