Gucci parts ways with Sabato De Sarno just before Milan Fashion Week

Gucci has announced the sudden departure of its creative director, Sabato De Sarno, just two and a half weeks before the brand is set to showcase its latest collection at Milan Fashion Week. The unexpected move leaves Gucci’s design team in charge of finalising the upcoming runway presentation, scheduled for 25 February.

The Italian fashion house, owned by luxury conglomerate Kering, has yet to name a successor, stating that a new creative director will be announced “in due time.”

Leadership shifts at Gucci

De Sarno, who took over as creative director less than two years ago, was appointed following the surprise exit of Alessandro Michele in 2022. His tenure marked a shift away from Michele’s maximalist, gender-fluid aesthetic towards a more pared-down, minimalist vision. While his collections sought to appeal to a broader consumer base, they struggled to deliver commercially, with Gucci’s sales performance failing to meet expectations.

In a statement, Gucci’s newly appointed CEO, Stefano Cantino, expressed appreciation for De Sarno’s contribution, particularly in highlighting the brand’s craftsmanship and heritage. Kering’s deputy CEO, Francesca Bellettini, echoed the sentiment, crediting him with strengthening Gucci’s foundations. However, the departure suggests that the company is seeking a new creative direction amid declining sales.

Struggles with sales performance

Despite its longstanding reputation as a luxury leader, Gucci has faced financial setbacks in recent quarters. Kering reported a 15% decline in overall revenue in the third quarter of 2024, with Gucci’s revenue dropping by 26% to €1.6 billion. The disappointing figures have placed pressure on leadership to revitalise the brand’s appeal and restore its standing in the competitive luxury market. Kering is set to announce its full-year earnings next week, a report that may provide further insight into the impact of recent creative and strategic shifts.

Gucci, originally founded in Florence over a century ago as a luggage and leather goods maker, has historically given its creative directors significant freedom in shaping the brand’s identity. From Tom Ford’s provocative, sensual designs in the 1990s to Michele’s eclectic, vintage-inspired aesthetic, each era has brought a distinct creative vision.

A history of late-season creative shifts

This is not the first time Gucci has undergone a major leadership change just before a runway show. In January 2015, the brand announced the departure of then-creative director Frida Giannini as the fashion industry arrived for the menswear runway preview. At the time, Alessandro Michele, then part of the Gucci design team, stepped in at the last minute to lead the collection, which was assembled in just five days. His menswear debut, featuring the now-iconic pussy bow blouse for men, signalled a dramatic new direction for the house.

De Sarno, before joining Gucci, had an extensive tenure at Valentino, where he oversaw both menswear and womenswear collections. With his departure, Michele’s influence remains present in the industry—having taken over as creative director at Valentino in 2023.

Broader industry shifts

Gucci’s leadership change is part of a wave of recent creative shake-ups across major fashion houses. Just weeks before De Sarno’s exit, Kim Jones stepped down as creative director of Dior’s menswear collections. As luxury brands continue to navigate evolving consumer preferences and economic challenges, these moves suggest a broader industry shift towards re-evaluating creative leadership and market strategy.

As Milan Fashion Week approaches, all eyes will be on Gucci’s upcoming collection—now shaped entirely by the design team. The runway show will likely offer clues about the brand’s next creative phase and how it plans to redefine itself in an increasingly competitive luxury landscape.