Elie Saab’s 'Haute Couture' show blends opulence with architectural precision

The sounds of spring—babbling brooks and birdsong—set an almost surreal tone on Wednesday as Elie Saab unveiled his latest Haute Couture collection inside the soaring Palais de Tokyo in Paris. The tranquillity was punctuated only by the rhythmic clicking of cameras and the occasional cheer as Eva Longoria swept in, adding to the air of anticipation.

While the setting evoked pastoral serenity, the collection was anything but subtle. Saab, renowned for his signature opulence, introduced an architectural edge to his usual high-drama couture. The Lebanese designer, a fixture on red carpets worldwide, wove together his signature intricate embellishments with a newfound structural boldness, offering a collection that felt both commanding and ethereal.

This season, Saab tempered his signature cascades of embroidery with a near-armour-like precision. Gowns enveloped the models in sweeping sculptural flourishes, curving around shoulders and hips in a manner reminiscent of Art Deco grandeur—yet with a distinctly modern interpretation. Geometric bands of sparkle reinforced the sculptural intent, their precise placement creating silhouettes that were sharper, more defined. Unlike the designer’s typical fluid romance, this collection carried a sense of strength—an evolution from embellishment-heavy dreaminess to something more architecturally assertive.

Models moved through the grand space on three parallel runways, framed by classical white arches that heightened the show’s cinematic quality. Gowns dripped with jewel-encrusted embroidery and delicate feathers that echoed foliage, furthering the collection’s natural-meets-geometric theme. The effect was one of 1920s glamour reimagined: Gatsby-era decadence infused with Saab’s unerring ability to craft fantasy.

Yet, in a world marked by uncertainty, the sheer excess of the collection took on a different weight. Saab has long been a master of escapism—his creations offering glimpses into a world of shimmering perfection—but this time, his vision also seemed to carry a layer of quiet resilience. The intricate beadwork and sweeping fabrics were not just about beauty; they felt like a form of visual protection, a couture armour for a woman stepping forward into an unpredictable future.

The collection’s colour palette moved seamlessly from icy silvers and rich golds to soft pastels and deep jewel tones, each hue enhancing the sculptural quality of the garments. Floor-length gowns with plunging necklines and structured shoulders played with contrasts—hard and soft, fluid and rigid—demonstrating Saab’s ability to fuse femininity with strength. Layers of sheer tulle balanced the heavier embellishments, preventing the pieces from feeling weighed down despite their grandeur.

In a departure from his traditionally flowing silhouettes, Saab incorporated more sharply contoured elements: capes extending into dramatic trains, corseted bodices accentuated with angular cut-outs, and asymmetric draping that hinted at movement even in stillness. These additions signalled a subtle but deliberate shift in his aesthetic—a willingness to experiment within the realm of Haute Couture while staying true to his essence.

While Saab’s collection still spoke to his core clientele—those seeking show-stopping gowns imbued with femininity and grandeur—it also whispered of something new. Here was a woman not just draped in fantasy but armoured for the future, dressed for both spectacle and resilience.

As the final look—a breathtaking silver gown with sculptural embellishments that caught the light like crystal shards—glided down the runway, it became clear that Saab was not just celebrating beauty, but reimagining its purpose. In a world that often feels uncertain, his latest Haute Couture offering suggested that glamour, too, can be a form of quiet strength.