Indigenous fashion week in Santa Fe celebrates tradition and innovation

Santa Fe, New Mexico, played host to a dynamic celebration of Indigenous fashion this weekend, as designers from across North America took to the runway to showcase collections rooted in culture, community and craftsmanship. The three-day event marks a growing presence of Native fashion within the global style conversation, with designers honouring tradition while redefining contemporary Indigenous aesthetics.

The event, running parallel to the long-established Santa Fe Indian Market, is now complemented by two runway shows—one organised by the Southwestern Association for Indian Arts (SWAIA) and another independent showcase in the city’s bustling rail yard district. Both shows offered a diverse spectrum of design, from fine silks and beaded jewellery to hides, fur and streetwear.

Fashion designer Patricia Michaels, of Taos Pueblo and Project Runway fame, described the collections as deeply personal and culturally resonant. “Native fashion tells a story about our understanding of who we are—both as individuals and within our communities,” she said. “What you see on the runway is an expression of our lives and inspiration from our roots.”

This year, the event saw an international expansion with Vancouver Indigenous Fashion Week joining as a collaborator, bringing a wave of First Nations creativity across the border. The partnership brought added depth and variety to the already rich lineup of over 20 designers.

One of the highlights was designer Sage Mountainflower’s Taandi collection—Tewa for “spring”—which celebrated seasonal change and familial heritage. At 50, Mountainflower presented her debut collection at Santa Fe, drawing inspiration from her upbringing at Ohkay Owingeh Pueblo and her connections to Taos Pueblo and the Navajo Nation. The garments, made from satin and chiffon, featured delicate embroidery and vibrant colours that mirrored her vision of spring’s renewal. “I pay attention to trends, but this is really about what I love and what speaks to me,” she said.

From the Canadian Yukon, Secwépemc designer Randi Nelson showcased pieces made from hand-tanned elk and caribou hides, employing traditional methods passed down through generations. Her work, which began with jewellery made from quills and beads, is centred on ethical material use and cultural legacy. “There’s no one pan-Indigenous look,” Nelson said. “Each of us is sharing something specific from our nations and families—and transforming that into something new.”

April Allen, an Inuk designer from the Labrador coast, presented a striking mesh dress representing water, addressing themes of environmental awareness and access to clean drinking water. Her presentation was accompanied by haunting vocal music from Inuit-Mohawk performer Beatrice Deer, creating an immersive sensory experience.

Fashion in Santa Fe has long had a place in its celebrated arts ecosystem, with Indigenous artisans showcasing jewellery daily in the central plaza and institutions like the Institute of American Indian Arts offering fashion-focused degrees. This week also included designer galas at the New Mexico governor’s mansion and gallery mixers, cementing the city’s status as a vibrant style hub.

Phoenix-based designer Jeremy Donavan Arviso brought a contemporary, urban edge to the event, presenting under both the official SWAIA banner and the independent show curated by Amber-Dawn Bear Robe of the Siksika Nation. Arviso’s Vision Quest collection incorporated influences from major fashion houses with his own tribal identity, which spans Diné, Hopi, Akimel O’odham and Tohono O’odham roots. “I didn’t grow up with ceremonial practices—I grew up on the streets. My fashion reflects that,” he said.

The shows also featured prominent Indigenous figures, including former U.S. Interior Secretary Deb Haaland of Laguna Pueblo, who modelled designs by Patricia Michaels and wore jewellery by Zuni silversmith Veronica Poblano.

While Santa Fe’s Indigenous fashion week may still be evolving, it’s clear that it offers more than just visual flair. It’s a space for storytelling, cultural exchange and the continued reimagining of what Native fashion can be on a global stage.