Vintage vs estate jewellery: What’s the real difference?

People toss around the words ‘vintage’ and ‘estate’ as if they’re interchangeable. But they couldn’t be more wrong. One signals age and the other signals ownership. If you want to buy jewellery without embarrassing yourself, here’s how to learn the difference.

Can jewellery be both estate and vintage?

Estate jewellery simply means pre-owned. Whether it’s your grandmother’s emerald brooch or a Cartier love bracelet bought two years ago and resold on impulse, both count as estate. Age doesn’t matter, ownership does. Think of it as the “previously worn” section of jewellery, just without the polite euphemisms.

But vintage carries weight. It means the piece has survived at least 20 to 30 years and still has the style to back it up. It can be a bold Art Deco ring, a chunky gold chain from the 70s, or even your mother’s early ‘90s hoops — all qualify. Vintage is about design and the essence of an era. It's the jewellery equivalent of showing up in an original Yves Saint Laurent suit instead of last season’s H&M blazer.

But here’s the overlap: every vintage piece is estate, but not every estate piece is vintage. A 1940s diamond cocktail ring is both estate and vintage. But the 2021 engagement ring someone regretted and returned is only estate. The difference matters because one has history and character. The other simply had another owner.

Value is linked to the language. When dealers list something as vintage, they’re not just talking about the age but also charging for it. The word estate, on the other hand, should prepare you for variety. It could be timeless or it could be tacky. 

So, next time you’re tempted to call every pre-owned jewel “vintage,” don’t. Vintage earns its place with time. Estate is just… secondhand. Learn the nuance, and you’ll never confuse a resale with a true Deco masterpiece again.

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