We have credible evidence that Kolkattans will travel far and wide to explore the most discerning biryani, a dish that has perhaps toppled luchi-mangsho as the ultimate comfort meal. But you only have to go as far as Patuli to have some of the most adventurous gourmet biryanis that are being made in the city. Biryanishk by The Biryani Company has come up with a line-up which is astoundingly diverse and fresh; from Awadhi Zafrani Malai Biryani to Goan Jhinga Biryani, and the smoothest kebabs, you can take your pick at the fine diner.
One of their most popular numbers is the Premium Kolkata Biryani, which is designed for the connoisseurs; in addition to the juicy, boneless chunks of meat it features an added layer of keema, and is spiced with saffron, which is imported straight from Iran.
“It’s so difficult to get your hands on authentic Kashmiri saffron, what we find here is treated, and not natural. In fact, Biryanishk has always been for people who are conscious about what they are eating, and are keen about affordable but indulgent tastes. All the ingredients are hand-picked and the recipes have been thoughtfully curated after a lot of research, our attempt has always been quite meticulous,” Saugata Banerjee, the mind behind Biryanishk, tells us. Biryanishk is barely six months old, and has already carved a very promising niche in the city’s ; besides the dining outlet in Raja SC Mullick Road, there are two takeaway counters in Behala and Ekdalia. The restaurant has come up with a convenient format of packaging; besides the solo serving, you can also opt for small and large easy-serve buckets.
The Gulbarg Masur Bhuna Gosht was the first thing on our plates - we found a steaming plate of gorgeous and juicy, deep scarlet shredded mutton, intensely seasoned with rich garam masala. In the traditional Hyderabadi cuisine, 'bhuna' refers to cooking meat without adding water, so the meat cooks in its own juices, and the gravy reduction essentially coats the meat. Biryanishk’s Bhuna Gosht is a splendid and bona fide rendition of the Nizami palate, and leaves a lavish and sharp after-taste.
We were next offered the Lucknowi Mutton Galauti Kebab next, and were treated to a taste of unadulterated shahi hints of the old school melt-in-the-mouth kebab. Served on a Lucknowi paratha, the kebabs had balanced salty notes which made the pairing so flavourful. Our Biryani for the afternoon was the good ol’ Calcutta Biryani, and didn’t fail to impress. It was simple, aromatic, fresh and left a trail of rich, unmissable taste in our mouths.
Price for two: Rs 450 for two