The culinary renaissance of Hyderabad might well have begun when traditional eateries stopped innovating, leading many to lament the city’s stagnant food scene. For a while, Hyderabad seemed content to rest on the laurels of its famous biryanis and kebabs, with few ventures daring to deviate from the norm. This peculiar state of affairs didn’t seem unusual to many, as the city’s epicurean spotlight had long shifted towards more contemporary and experimental offerings. However, nothing about culinary stagnation is inevitable, and the triumph of Panchatantra stands as proof of this.
This café welcomes the free-spirited — a cultural hub, where every dish is a creative expression. With its inauguration, and the energy it brought into the local food scene, Hyderabad’s casual dining narrative began to sparkle with fresh excitement — food innovation can happen anywhere, anytime. The catchphrase of the café could very well be, ‘welcome the mavericks.’ With a menu that boasts the kind of adventurous flair not-so-usually reserved for downtown spots, it mirrors the generosity of its owner-chefs, who have spent the majority of their careers honing such inviting culinary approaches.
If someone’s relationship status reads: ‘committed to food,’ they will easily fall in love with Silk or Mulmul, a richly textured cold coffee crafted with oat milk and condensed milk, highlighted by a cold brew steeped for 24 hours that intensifies its acidity and unveils a deep, aromatic bouquet of coffee flavours. The casual café proudly shares that it’s one of the first in the city to eschew a coffee machine, earning a reputation for its exceptional manual brews. The cucumber coffee tonic provided a rejuvenating beginning that refreshed the senses.
Crafted without sugar, this calming concoction merged crisp, cold-pressed tonic with delicately brewed cold coffee, creating a soothing experience that gently uplifts without any hint of anxiety. The Mulberry cold brew fascinated us as the crown jewel of the coffee offerings.
Again, with no added sugar, this robust drink blended a generous pour of thick, house-made mulberry syrup with a deep, rich cold brew. Each sip offered a luxurious melding of sweet, tart mulberry and the complex, velvety notes of the coffee. Start your morning with a comforting choice between some lovingly prepared omelettes: the Ros omelette, infused with a medley of herbs and spices, brings you a delightful local zest, while it also envelops you in the warm essences of tender potatoes and caramelised onions nestled in fluffy, golden eggs.
You may pair these with the iced apple carpaccio, where thinly sliced apples are served chilled, offering a crisp, vital crunch that wakes you up. However, not for the world can you miss the prawn toast, where juicy, seasoned prawns sit atop a crispy toast, harmonising rich tastes with heartening textures for an enjoyable brunch.
`800 upwards for two. At Begumpet.
chokita@ newindianexpress.com @PaulChokita