Hearty bits from Bhopal to Hyderabad

We got a warm aadab from Sulemani Chai and a refreshing namaskaram from Shikhanji. While the tango of cinnamon and ginger in the golden-hued royal chai was an elixir for those afflicted with Hyderabad’s seasonal sniffles, the lemony, cumin-infused Shikhanji took us back to those much cherished summer holidays.

The Bhopali hospitality was evident at ITC Kohenur’s Golconda Pavilion, where the feast ‘Chowk Baazar ki Rangat’ told the tale of Bhopal’s rich culture through indescribably charming flavours that made their way into Bhopal eons ago from kingdoms around.

And if the drinks were that flavourful, the peckish bug was blown away by the Bhopali Bhel Puri, different from most bhel puris on the street. The secret? Kala chaat masala, a blend of all sorts of spices. The pomegranates added freshness and pop of colour while the spice was just right, not the sort where you bite a chilli and pray to God Almighty for a sound tummy.

This delightful snack only teased our tummies more but Palak Makayi ka Shorba and Mutton Paya Soup swooped in to soothe us. The slightly tangy shorba paired excellently with Khamiri Roti, a Mughal-era flatbread topped with poppy seeds, which roped in some earthiness.

But the star in this course had to be the Sheermal, a saffron-flavoured puffy bread generously slathered with ghee and sesame seeds. Eating it with some meaty, hearty, and smooth paya, we were instantly knocking on the doors of food heaven.

We were pleasantly surprised to see Nadru ke Shammi Kebab (lotus stem kebab), a staple in Kashmiri cuisine. But after all, Bhopal is the City of Lakes, where lotuses are aplenty. A rich cardamom flavour in the kebab was a sharp contrast to the Dahi ke Kebab (yoghurt kebab), which, with its coconut, ginger and onion seemed to be a long-lost cousin of the south Indian uthappam. Meat lovers at the table swore allegiance to the Machili ke Seekh Kebab (fish kebab), which was soft, bursting with a fresh methi-fennel flavour.

Sindhis who migrated from Pakistan to Bairagarh in Bhopal brought with them the delicious Dal Pakwan, which is essentially deep-fried, flat maida puris served with chana dal and topped with a little tamarind and coriander chutney. Mix it all together, dunk the puri in the gravy, close your eyes and…yum!

We fell much in love with the Warqi Paratha which took our taste buds on a quick trip to Lucknow. The flaky, layered paratha sung a flavourful duet with the Rajasthani Methi Mangodi. The grainy texture of the mangodis—small round vadis made with yellow moong dal—went well with the methi gravy that was tangy thanks to the curd.

Lips smacked across the table as mouths devoured Mutton Yakhni Pulao with Bhopali Gosht Qorma. The mildly spiced, creamy qorma with its rich and fatty meat was the ideal match for the pulao. The star of the day was undeniably the poha, a famous Maharashtrian dish that crossed over at some point. It was perfect, and a favourite of both vegetarians and non-vegetarians at the table. And who would’ve thought the salty poha, with its innumerable cubes of potato and coriander leaves, will taste like heaven with the Jalebi!

But in terms of aesthetic, the Daulat ki Chaat—pure creamy indulgence garnished with pistachios, rose petals, tutti-frutis and silver warqs and flanked by several `2,000 notes—won hands down.

Needless to say, we went home feeling like Nawabs and Begums after that hearty Bhopali feast!

Story by Nitika Krishna