

While Fireback’s Goa outpost is all sunshine and sea breeze, its newly opened Mumbai location seems to have arrived already steeped in the city’s seasonal rhythm. Interestingly, the menu remains unchanged—but it’s been curated with such intuitive adaptability that it lands just right, no matter the weather. A smoky, comforting soup feels like an embrace in the monsoon, while the zesty pineapple salad provides a refreshing, playful break in the summer.
With its layers of heat, herbs, char, and richness, the cuisine envelops the city's atmosphere. While the rain drums steadily outside, there's something profoundly grounding about biting into smoky pork belly or enjoying a crisp, citrusy cocktail.
Set in Nilaya Anthology, Lower Parel, Fireback is the latest from EHV International, the group behind some of India’s most distinct culinary experiences: Indian Accent, Comorin, and HOSA. The restaurant is helmed by Chef David Thompson, who has spent decades studying and preserving the complexity of Thai cuisine. His respect for tradition runs deep through the menu, but it’s the way the food responds so intuitively to Mumbai’s emotional and sensory landscape that stands out.
The meal began with a bowl of Coconut and Galangal Chicken Soup. It was everything I craved in that moment—warm, fragrant, slightly spicy, with a creamy finish that lingered long after the spoon was set down. Then came the Stir-Fried King Mushrooms, deeply umami and finished with a smoky char that gave them a satisfying heft far beyond their plant-based roots. It was the kind of dish that made me pause, surprised and a little awed.
The Fried Pork Belly with Charred Cabbage and Tamarind Dip was the high point. With crisp skin, tender meat, and a slight funk from the tamarind, it hit every note—rich, sticky, sharp. I paired it with the Tamarind Cocktail, a smoky-tequila blend laced with mandarin and wattle seed. They created the kind of combination that resets your expectations as well as your palate.
Comfort in its purest form—familiar, effortless, but noticeably elevated—was provided by the Crab Fried Rice. It's the type of food that you eat quietly because it's that delicious. The chicken krapow was spicy, peppery, and unapologetically strong. The rich, herbal warmth of each bite complemented the soggy atmosphere outside.
Dessert brought the evening to a peaceful end. The Cashew Nut Pudding with Caramelised Taro was the dish that stuck with me, even though the Mango Sticky Rice was crisp and restrained. Nutty, silky, gently sweet, it tasted slow-cooked and lovingly made—not dressed up for effect, but deeply satisfying.
The space, designed by Russell Sage Studio in collaboration with Rashmi Khattar, feels unforced. A gentle wave-like ceiling gives the room a rhythm, while muted textures keep it modern without stripping away warmth. It’s elegant but grounded—like the food.
Fireback in Mumbai doesn’t feel like a transplant. It isn’t trying to recreate Bangkok or play into pan-Asian clichés. It feels present, tuned in to the city’s climate, appetite, and mood. The design supports that experience quietly, letting the food lead. And on a rainy evening in Lower Parel, it does just that: bold, herbaceous, and exactly what you didn’t know you needed.
Written by: Esha Aphale