This Chennai eatery offers up a tale of two cultures, told through fire and flavour

This spot, Northeast Kitchen, is quietly doing something special, blending the smoky soul of Manipuri cuisine with the cosy familiarity of Korean staples. It’s not fusion for the sake of it. It’s two food cultures, side by side, holding their own.

We started with the Pork momos. They arrived steaming, their glistening skin giving way to a filling of tender pork and sautéed onions. These little pockets of meat are outrageously juicy. Maybe save this for the end, or risk not trying anything else.

Next up? The Smoked Pork with Naga King Chilies. This one has roots. In founder Ramayon Keishing’s hometown in Manipur, the meat is smoked over wood for that signature depth. Here, he tweaks tradition a bit. Pork pieces are cooked, then smoked over charcoal to preserve flavour and health. The result? Pork that’s crispy, slightly flaky, and bathed in a fiery red paste that looks intimidating but delivers a slow-building, mellow heat.

The Crispy Beef and Pork Fried Rice could stand alone as a main. Unlike typical street-style versions, the meat here isn’t flour-coated or deep-fried separately. “We cook the meat, slice it, and fry it directly with the rice and lots of vegetables,” Ramayon explains. The crunch comes not from added texture but from technique, slow-frying the rice until it slightly dries out, giving each bite a satisfying crispness. Lightly seasoned with soy sauce, salt, and finished with either lemon or vinegar, it’s layered and satisfying without needing a side.

On the Korean side, we tried the Kimbap, Kimchi Fried Rice, and Budae Jjigae.
The Kimbap offered a change of pace. Light and comforting. Wrapped in seaweed, the sticky rice is filled with sausage, carrots, radish, and omelette. Every bite is balanced, with the sausage offering a juicy surprise.

The Kimchi Fried Rice is a reliable hit, fermented funk and spiced rice topped off with a fried egg. It’s simple, punchy, and exactly what you want it to be.

The Budae Jjigae, or “army stew,” was born from wartime scarcity, where American army rations like canned sausages and instant noodles were repurposed by locals. What began as a makeshift meal has evolved into a beloved comfort dish. Their version is a hearty stew of japchae, pork, tofu, mushrooms, green chilies, and sausage. Subtly spiced, deeply satisfying, and warm enough to quiet the war within and drown out the one outside.

Meal for two: ₹700. From 12 pm to 10 pm. At Northeast Kitchen, G1 Tower, Adyar.