The history of ice cream: Breaking down the invention of the ultimate summer dessert

Come summer, there's simply no alternative to the ice cream. Nothing can feel quite as good in our mouths as cold, melty, creamy ice cream on a sweltering summer day. However, have you ever wondered how ice cream was invented? The ice cream we consume today is convenient, modern and neatly packaged to be a quick treat. However, ice cream wasn't always eaten the way it is eaten today. So, what exactly is the history of ice cream?

When was the first ice cream made? Let's look at its history

Some theories suggest that ice cream was not always a creamy concoction but rather flavoured ice. Some historians have pointed out the invention goes as far back as the 4th century BC, when the Roman emperor Nero would send runners into the mountains to collect snow, which was then flavoured with fruits and honey. Similarly, in ancient China, a dessert made from a mixture of rice and milk, frozen with snow, is documented around the Tang Dynasty (618-907 AD). 

But recent historical data connects the history of ice cream in Europe and then America through the way of Arab invasion of Sicily in the 8th century. The roots of modern ice cream can be traced back to ancient Persia (modern-day Iran), where a refreshing treat called Sharbat, a mix of fruit syrup and snow-chilled honey, was enjoyed thousands of years ago. When the Arabs conquered the Persian Empire, they enhanced this dessert by adding milk and sugar, laying the foundation for what would evolve into granita and gelato.

What were 'Yakchals'

Persia boasts a history of ice cream making spanning 2,000 years. The unique cone-shaped structures called Yakchals, found in Iran, are believed to have influenced the design of ice cream. These ancient buildings, with their heat-resistant materials and underground storage, were used as early as 400 BC to preserve ice and frozen desserts. 

The design and construction of this construction allowed it to function as a highly efficient refrigeration system without the use of any electricity or modern technology. The walls of the chamber were made of a special mix of clay, mud and cob that is waterproof and insulating

The dome-shaped roof is also made of a special mix of materials that helped to regulate the temperature inside the chamber. During the winter months, water passed through a water channel system called "Qanaat" into the Yakhchaal, where it was stored in the subterranean chamber. The thick walls and insulation helped keep the ice frozen for many months, even during the hottest summer. 

The cool air from the chamber would then be channelled into nearby buildings or used to make ice cream and other frozen desserts Iranians historically enjoyed, and still do enjoy, Faloodeh, a dessert made from starch noodles served with syrup and ice.

In the past, they developed a method where ice was placed in large bowls and milk in smaller ones. By rotating the bowls, the cold from the ice transferred to the milk, causing it to crystallise and eventually freeze into ice cream. Among the many variations, Bastani, or Persian saffron ice cream, stands out as one of the oldest and most luxurious.

Bastani, also known as bastani sonnati (traditional ice cream) or bastani sonnati zaferani (traditional saffron ice cream), is a creamy and aromatic dessert recognised by its vibrant saffron hue. This Persian delicacy is crafted using whole milk, heavy cream, egg yolks, sugar, rose water, pistachios, vanilla, and salep (a natural thickener from orchid tubers), resulting in a velvety texture and rich flavour. 

By 400 BCE, Persians had also perfected Faloodeh, a vermicelli-based treat often enjoyed alongside Bastani. The yakhchals were crucial for storing ice throughout the year. Their thick walls, domed roofs, wind catchers (badgirs), and aqueducts (qanats) effectively kept ice cool in the desert heat, and remarkably, some of these structures still stand today.

Ice cream comes to court

Ice cream's introduction to the Persian royal court occurred in the 19th century after Nasser al-Din Shah Qajar, the King of Persia, tasted French ice cream in Paris. While he didn't immediately bring it back, his successor, Mozaffar al-Din Shah, eventually introduced ice cream to the palace.

However, it remained a luxury reserved for the aristocracy until the early 20th century. In the 1920s, ice cream became available to the public in Tehran, largely thanks to Akbar Mashhadi Malayeri, also known as Akbar Mashti.

Originally from a small village, Akbar Mashti experimented with traditional Persian flavours to create his own ice cream, featuring saffron, rose water, and cream. His recipe, known as "Akbar Mashti Bastani," quickly gained popularity and remains quite beloved in Iranian cuisine today.