MasterChef India 2023 winner Nayanjyoti Saikia won our hearts last year with his charming smile and simple meals that came with a twist. In a chat with us in the past, the Tinsukia boy shared how he dreamt of opening a restaurant, and his dream has finally come true. Nayanjyoti has opened his own restaurant, Roohani —a 155-seater one, that serves modern global cuisine— at Central Mall on GS Road, in Guwahati, Assam. We spoke to him about his restaurant, northeastern cuisines, and more. Excerpts:
This must be a dream come true moment for you…
It still feels like a dream. At times, it feels that it is 2019, and I will wake up from sleep to find out everything was a dream.
What does the name Roohani signify?
Roohani means soulful. We wanted to curate a menu that serves soulful food to guests. We took inspiration from across the globe, but we are tweaking the recipes by using our local produce.
Name some of your favourite dishes from the menu.
The dessert section deserves a special highlight, since that is my forte. We are doing some classic desserts, but with a twist, eg. a tiramisu that will look completely different; a lemon meringue tart with Assamese kaji nemu (citrus lemon). We also have a reconstructed Apple pie, which we are calling Autumn on a plate. This dessert will give the vibe of an autumnal forest. We are also doing a variety of chaats, where each will have a unique twist as to how they will be presented. We are doing pav bhaji but will serve it as a bruschetta. The in-house toasted breads will be topped with the bhaji, and for the chutneys, we will serve caviar, pearls and yogurt foam. The popular dishes that made my way to win the title easier, like the Curried crab, chicken wings, and a few of the desserts will also be on the menu.
How long was the process of curating the menu? Did you curate the whole menu yourself?
It took a whole year for me to curate the menu. I have curated the menu mostly, but there’s my executive chef from Uttarakhand, who’s making the north Indian dishes and kebabs, and he is fabulous at making kebabs.
Does adding hyperlocal ingredients change the taste of the already popular dishes?
Not really. Instead of imported coriander, we are just using the local produce. We are mostly using our local chillis, lemons, and herbs, that might change the taste, but only slightly.
Do you feel that with the touch of the local spices, the restaurant’s dishes will take NE ingredients to a new level, especially to the people from other states/countries?
Yes, I think it would. Adding to it, soon after our launch, we will also introduce our 'ethnic menu', which will boast our authentic recipes with a modern touch, but we won’t play up a lot with it, since the concept is to treat our guests with soulful food.
Where do you want to take your ethnic food on the global map?
Northeastern food is very different from any other parts of India. We use very hyperlocal elements, seasonal produce, which makes the cuisine unavailable to most parts of the country. As a result, people don’t connect to the food easily, because they haven’t even tasted it. But I want to show people what alternate spices and produce can be used in the dishes and how the dishes can be elevated to suit every palate. With these, the northeast food might receive more recognition from the rest of the country.
Also, whenever I travel, the only thing that haunts me is that we never present our food as proudly as the rest of the world. We have such brilliant food, such fantastic spices, but we rarely talk about them.
While many restaurants import ingredients from Thailand and Malaysia, why isn’t it done from the northeastern states?
There are only a few vendors who export the hyperlocal produce to other parts of the country. Even during the competition, I couldn’t really find our local spices or herbs in the show’s pantry. They had spices from down south, and even from Kashmir, but not from our regions.
According to you, what in northeastern cuisines stands out the most?
The simplicity. The food is healthy and sustainable since we believe in foraging, and it always gives the warmth of a mother’s hug, the warmth of a home.
How has your journey from MasterChef auditions to Roohani been?
I don’t know if this is a coincidence, but I had my audition on September 5, and now I opened my restaurant on that very date. I was so nervous that day because the show was my only chance to convince my parents to showcase my inclination towards cooking. Everything fell into place thereafter. Opening my restaurant was my focus from the very start, and I slowly realised that not many people know in depth about our food. So, I had to create a menu that uses the local ingredients that would educate more people about our food.