Women's Day 2025: How the traditional flavours of a Bengali household made chef Sukanya Ghosh pursue it professionally
It was Chef Sukanya Ghosh’s thamma, or paternal grandmother, who lovingly taught her the intricate nuances of Bengali cuisine. Sukanya, now a Senior Sous Chef at ITC Royal Bengal, is someone who finds joy and stories in every dish she encounters. Immersed in the rich flavours of her Bengali upbringing, she was surrounded by the vibrant sights and tantalising smells of traditional Bengali cooking from a young age. Embracing her passion, after pursuing formal training, she specialised in culinary arts and shared with us her inspirations and more.
Chef Sukanya Ghosh on falling in love with Bengali household cooking
What made you take up cooking as your profession?
Growing up, food was more than just sustenance in our home; it was a tradition, an art, and a way of life. In our bustling Bengali household, every family gathering revolved around the kitchen. I have vivid memories of my mother and grandmother, hands dusted with flour, blending spices with expert precision — turning the simplest of ingredients into something magical and comforting. It wasn’t just about the taste; it was the joy and love they infused into every meal that truly captivated me. That early fascination sparked my decision to make cooking my profession. Each dish I create keeps me connected to the kitchens of my childhood, where I first discovered that food could tell stories.
What’s your earliest memory of food?
One of my earliest memories is of helping my mother make luchi (deep-fried puffed bread) for breakfast. I must have been around five or six years old. I remember the feeling of the soft dough beneath my fingers, the sound of the oil sizzling in the pan, and the smell of freshly fried luchi wafting through the air. It was a magical experience that sparked my love for cooking and food.
Fusion in Bengali food: Yay or nay?
While I appreciate creativity and innovation in cooking, I believe that fusion should be done thoughtfully and respectfully. Bengali cuisine has a rich, unique flavour profile that should be preserved and celebrated. I’m not against experimentation, but I believe it’s essential to understand and respect the traditional techniques, ingredients, and flavour combinations that make Bengali cuisine so special.
Chef Sukanya Ghosh shares a recipe with Bengal elements but a notch higher
Recipe: Bhuna Ilish er Kesar Mishti Jhol
Ingredients
- 4 pieces of hilsa fish (about 1 inch thick)
- ½ tsp saffron threads, soaked in 1 tbsp hot water
- 2 medium onions, chopped
- 2 cloves of garlic, minced
- 1 tsp ginger paste
- 1 tsp turmeric powder
- 1 tsp red chili powder
- 1 tsp garam masala powder
- Salt, to taste
- 2 tbsp mustard oil
- 2 green chilies, slit
- Fresh cilantro, for garnish
Method
1. Marinate the fish pieces in a mixture of turmeric powder, red chili powder, and salt for at least 30 minutes.
2. Heat 1 tablespoon of mustard oil in a pan over medium heat. Add the chopped onions and sauté until they're translucent.
3. Add the minced garlic and ginger paste to the pan and sauté for another minute.
4. Add the marinated fish pieces to the pan and sauté for 2-3 minutes.
5. Add 1 cup of water to the pan and bring to a boil.
6. Reduce the heat to low and add the saffron-infused water to the pan.
7. Simmer the curry for 10-12 minutes or until the fish is cooked through.
8. Garnish with slit green chilies and fresh cilantro.