When you step into Punkah House, you tend to forget that you’re in a public space. With eggshell blue walls, vintage-style woven wire chairs, gorgeous Chinese urns installed at strategic spots, and warm lighting, it felt for a few seconds, like we were in someone’s living room. Someone with impeccable taste and a remarkable collection of antiques, to be sure!
Located in Indira Nagar, this new restaurant with experimental food from the Indian subcontinent (boasting dishes like Mochar (banana flower) Stir Fry with shallots and plantain crisps), is backed by the people behind Bombay Brasserie (above which it is located) — Charcoal Concepts — who have teamed up with MRS Hospitality.
As soon as we sat down at a table with a plush leather couch, built into the wall, we were presented with an amuse bouche — Drumsticks Poached in Red Wine, paired with goats cheese. This unusual combination worked together like magic and we were certainly ‘amuse’ed.
Saffron and sound
From the cocktail menu, our pick was the Club Lucknow — saffron-infused whiskey, absinthe mist cloud, homespun apple syrup and fresh ginger. That description had us at ‘saffron-infused’... and at ‘mist cloud’ and then again at ‘fresh ginger.’ It sounded like a dream and it tasted like one too, thanks to the perfectly balanced flavours.
Crispy Whitebait, a plate of golden brown, batter-fried Whitebait seasoned with pepper and drizzled with sweet chilli sauce, is the perfect bar eat. The fish was crispy and spiced just right, while the sauce, which is usually best avoided due to its sticky sweetness, was used sparingly and gave the dish more depth. Sweet Truffle Cream with Indian Seed Crackers was another ‘cracking’ small plate. A thick layer of truffle-infused cream was smeared on a stone slab, and sprinkled with pumpkin seeds, crushed crackers, chilli and olive oil. The crisp crackers were used to scoop up the cream. Then, we sampled the Jamun Ceviche. Made with sea bass, it was tossed with puffed black rice which gave it crunch and dried red chilli flakes for a hit of spice. The bright purple jamun spread it came with lent it tartness.
Chargrilled Prawns from the ‘Roasts & Grills’ section is a great option for something substantial. The smokiness paired well with the natural flavour of the prawns. Served on a bed of sabudana, with basil and almond flakes, this unusual selection of ingredients was delicious together.
Colada course
Nothing could have prepared us for the treat that was dessert — Ananas Sorbet (a generous scoop of pineapple sorbet, obscured by a cloud of coconut-flavoured foam and garnished with a slice of dehydrated pineapple). The flavour of fresh pineapple together with the beautiful coconut foam was like a pina colada on a plate.
The tasteful decor is an antidote for those jaded by industrial and kitschy aesthetics that have become de rigeur, while the food impresses with its use of exotic Indian ingredients, elevated to new heights through thoughtfully paired flavours.
Rs.2,500 for two. At 12th Main, Indira Nagar