Tucked away in Bengaluru, this new restaurant presents ‘flame craft’ as its core and we checked out a degustation menu that left us thoroughly impressed!

The connection between fire and mankind is primitive. Some say, civilization only happened because early man discovered how to harness fire, protect themselves and cook the food they hunted, making it more palatable and safe. We often seem to forget that when we think of the grilling culture as a culinary art, what excites us is this primordial connection — something that resides deep within each and every one of us.

When we heard of Fireside: Flame Craft Dining a new restaurant dedicated to the art of open-flame cooking or ‘flame craft’ in the heart of Kalyan Nagar, we were very intrigued. Fireside promises to offer an unparalleled exploration of flavours through meticulous wood-fired techniques and we decided to go check out their offerings on a warm mid-week night. While their menu is extensive, we went with a degustation menu of ten courses — something we were told would introduce us to the concept in a satisfactory manner.

Finding the space is very easy, just remember to keep your head pointed skywards. The restaurant, located above a coffee shop and another restaurant, is on the second floor and while the ambience doesn’t seem like much on the outside, one step in and you’re in for a surprise. Bang in the centre, almost purposely, is the kitchen with the open fire grills, ovens and work stations. The only thing more tantalising about flame craft, we realise, is watching the food being prepared. Along with her team of co-founders and chefs, Rajat Alve, Vineeth M and Pramodh HN — Priyanka Alve introduces you to the concept and asks you to be seated, so the indulgence can begin. We wasted no time and were seated and served home-brewed kombuchas in a variety of flavours like grape, orange, mango, kokum, aam panna and cucumber & mint. All in various stages of fermentation, some were sweeter and some had a stronger fizzy kick. Through the meal, we sampled all the flavours or at least tried to and would suggest you do the same.

Our meal began with Course 1: Chicken Thigh with Leeks in an Alabama Sauce alongside Pickled Bimbli. The perfect way to start, this small serving of chicken on a skewer had all the perfect flavours to get our palates started. The pickled bimbli was an absolute gamechanger. This was quickly followed by Course 2: Lamb Ragu served with Parmesan Foam topped with Parsley Oil and Pasta Crisps. Shaped like flowers, the pasta crisps had us the moment we laid eyes on them. It also helped that the ragu was hearty and bursting with flavour. From chicken to lamb and then seafood, Course 3 was Coconut Crumb Prawn with Kung Som served with a Basil Aioli and Nori. Pairing elegantly with the aioli, we let out a collective sigh as we bit into this treat’s irresistible crunch.

It was finally time for a vegetarian escapade and Course 4 brought together a Confit Cherry Tomato with Burrata and Basil Pesto topped with a Pumpkin Seed Crisp and drizzled with Basil Oil. Almost too pretty to eat, one bite in and we were sold. Four courses down, no crumbs on our plates, this was starting to look like a good meal.

Course 5 gifted us a freshly-baked Goan Poi with Oyster Mushroom in a Cafreal Sauce with Feta Cream and Arugula and this was immediately followed by Course 6, a palate cleanser course with Fermented Orange Ice and Passion Fruit. The two courses complemented each other well and while we were still swooning over the poi, Course 7 greeted us — Eight Hours Smoked Pork Ribs with Pineapple Chimmichuri and Apple Glaze. We were wondering how pork was forgotten and these tender and juicy ribs made all the waiting worth it. Meat falling off the bone, we were still mesmerised when Course 8 was served.

Pairing an Oven Baked Seabass with a Seafood Paella alongside Edamame and Eureka Lemon in Course 8 seems like a good idea, till you make your paella with gobindobhog rice and it just doesn’t fit. We loved the seabass, though. Course 9 was another palate cleanser and in our opinion the actual highlight of the meal. A Ginger Beer Bomb made with Forest Honey and Mosambi that explodes in your mouth like nothing you’ve ever had before, we guarantee! We could have brought the meal to an end here, but Course 10 was dessert. The Ember Coconut with Semolina Sponge, Coconut Sprout, Mulberry and 73 percent Cocoa Soil with Rum is as delectable as it sounds. We took our time with this one and as the restaurant shut shop around us way past midnight, we licked our dessert bowls clean, quite shamelessly, knowing fully well that we’d return soon.

For degustation menu: INR 3,500/person. At Kalyan Nagar.

Email: romal@newindianexpress.com

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