Bengaluru meets the heart of Kolkata and North Indian cuisines in this popular new spot recently opened in JP Nagar

The very name Tollygunj conjures up images of bustling Kolkata streets, the aroma of diverse street foods, and the vibrant spirit of the City of Joy. So, when a restaurant called Jollygunj pops up in Bengaluru’s JP Nagar, promising the taste of Kolkata, we are intrigued. Was this just another Instagrammable eatery, or could it truly transport us to the heart of Bengal? The question continued in our heads as we visited the spot.

Stepping into the joint felt like walking into a love letter to Kolkata. Murals celebrating the city’s vibrant, multifaceted culture adorned the walls. The city’s football culture (people adorned in the colours of clubs Mohun Bagan and East Bengal), the bright neon lights of Trincas (a popular legacy eatery in Kolkata), and the majestic Howrah Bridge arching over the Hooghly—all lovingly recreated—evoked emotions associated with the City of Joy.

But the ambience is just the appetiser. The real test, of course, was the food. The menu was a reflection of North Indian diversity. We started with the dish everyone was raving about: the Wasabi Jhalmuri. Think of it as a bhel puri with a kick — the wasabi added a surprising zing that woke up our taste buds and prepped us for the feast ahead. A fun twist on the traditional Bhel Muri (as it is called in Kolkata), this starter was snappy and zingy and got us to a tantalising ‘chaat’ — we mean ‘start.’ Next up was the Angare Kebab. While the name packed a punch of heat and flavour, we felt the dish fell a bit under expectation. Chicken stuffed inside a boiled egg sounded intriguing, but the smoky, spicy notes we craved were rather muted. The Murgh Rozali Kebab, on the other hand, was oh-so-good with the juicy chicken breast bites filled with a meaty and chewy filling of chicken gizzards.

However, our moods were turned almost immediately with some refreshing cocktails. Among those served, our favourite was the Tarbooj Picante. Watermelon drinks can be cloyingly sweet, but this one struck the perfect balance between sweet, sour and spicy. It was so refreshing, that we almost forgot we weren’t sipping it on the banks of the Hooghly (almost!).

For the main course, we went classic Bengali: Naan Poori with Ghugni Aloo Magic. This humble dish of white peas is a staple in Kolkata and Jollygunj did it justice. The fluffy yet crispy naan poori was the perfect vehicle for the rich, flavourful ghugni gravy. We also indulged in the Chicken Bharta with a Calcutta Paratha. The flaky paratha elevated the already delicious bharta.

The gondhoraj ice cream for dessert was fragrant and refreshing, but the real star was the Pati Sapta. Imagine a delicate crêpe filled with jaggery and coconut, paired with creamy Nolen Gur (date palm jaggery) ice cream — the perfect sweet ending to a culinary journey through Bengal.

Meal for two: INR 1,200 onwards. At JP Nagar.